
Class JTLh^^ 
Rook_ . r) ^^ 



TO 






AND TO 



SAN PEDRO, 

REPUBLIC OF HONTOUR-^lS. 



BY CHAR^LES S\^STT, 



OF WAREEN COUNTY, Miss. 



IPE^IOE OnSTE IDOXjXjj^K.. 



NEW OELEANS, 
PRICE CURRE1\T PRINT, 129 dk 131 Gravier St. 

1868. 



Fi444 



m^ 



3 

r 



r>RlLlFAOE 



As we have stated in " Prefatory Kemarks " that wc were 
opposed to emigration to Honduras, it may be necessary for us 
to say that we have, in the following account, given a descrip- 
tion of what we saw, faithfully, and as far as possible without 
prejudice. 

It was our intention to publish "Prefatory Remarks" at the 
time the article was written, (October 7, 1867,) but we reserved it 
for publication in connection with what we should see in Hon- 
duras, which is done without altering a word, or the erasure of a 
single line. 
Wr- a Co^Mfe.,^^^^ | CHAELES SWETT. 



4 A TRIP TO HONDUUAS. 

go this acclimatioQ will ever enjoy in future the health whicc 
was theirs in our own country ? 

The latitude is further south and nearer the equator, and it is 
a well authenticated fact that it is more desirable in a Hygienic 
point of view to remove from a warm to a cold climate, in a 
majority of instances, than from a northern to a latitude nearer 
the equator. 

Here most of us are acclimated,''and if taken sick we have 
physicians who are acquainted with the diseases of our section, 
and our peculiar idiosyncracies, and consequently there would 
be a better chance of our recovery than would be the case in 
another latitude, however skillful the treatment of our case 
might be, if unaccompanied by the circumstances above named. 
Here we have friends who will rejoice with us in our prosperity, 
and who will sympathize with us in our misfortunes, which we 
can not expect in a strange laud. In a word, this is home ; a 
land that is ours ; doubly ours ; having been bequeathed to us 
by our forefathers, who sacrificed their lives in the war of the 
revolution, and by those who so recently died in the vain attempt 
to place our section in a position of independence. Should this 
country not be dearer than ever to us because of these reflections? 
Should we not remain here and keep forever green the graves of 
departed heroes, or should we desert a land that has been bought 
at such a price, and forget the suffering and privation of those 
who are now beyond reach of our sympathy, and whom no word 
of encouragement can reach, but whose memories we should 
cherish, and whose deeds we should keep forever fresh in our mem- 
ories ? Should we forget the midnight bivouac and scanty meal, 
with the cold wet ground for our bed and the canopy of heaven 
our only covering ? the long and tiresome marches, through rain, 
snow and ice, with naked feet and ragged clothing ? Should we 



PREFATORY REMARKS. 5 

banish the recollection of all this from our minds, and leave blank 
the place now occupied by such hallowed memories ? No, let us 
deliberate well before we leave our homes. It is a serious matter 
at any time, and particularly so at the present. It is a step that 
should not be taken without the most careful and exhaustive con- 
sideration, and until we are satisfied the change will be greatly to 
our advantage. Immediately after the close of the war, a distin- 
guished confederate general, in a letter to myself, stated it to be 
his determination to go to Mexico should it be necessary for him 
to leave here, yet at the same time stated it to be his determina- 
tion to remain here as long as he could, and said he would ad- 
vise all to do so as long as it could be done with honor and 
safety. 

At the time of receiving this letter I contemplated going to 
Mexico, but the whole current of my thoughts was changed, 
and I almost came to the positive ceHclusion to remain here as 
long as it could be done with " honor and safety." Since then, 
events have rapidly transpired which have been of a character 
to almost justify a determination to change, yet such was not 
my feeling at the time the contemplated trip was made known 
to me, nor is it at present ; though, under a certain condition of 
things, any land might possibly be better than our own, which 
condition has not yet arrived, and I sincerely hope it may never 
be our misfortune to witness. Since the late war, thousands 
have left this country with the view to bettering their condition , 
and many more contemplate leaving, notwithstanding the fact 
that few, if any, of all who made the change have been able 
to render such an account of their new homes as to induce their 
friends to follow. Many have gone, and more will go without 
giving the subject the consideration it demands, but make the 
leap in the dark, and without calculating the result if they fail to 



O A TRIP TO HONDURAS, 

leap the chasm, and should reach the bottom of an unfathomable 
abyss of future misery, want and suffering. We have 'from time 
to time been visited by so called agents of foreign and more 
favored lands (?) who, in too many instances care very little what 
ultimately becomes of their dupes so long as their own coffers are 
filled, and who have studied the most attractive means to remove 
any objection to the section they pretend to represent that may 
be raised by those who are opposed to emigrating. They repre- 
sent to the lazy and indolent that, by emigrating to their chosen 
spot they will find a country so favored by nature, and in which 
the spontaneous productions of the soil are so varied and boun- 
tiful, as to preclude the necessity of labor, and to the more 
grasping and avaricious they represent that a fortune is in store 
for them, and when acquired they will be enabled to successfully 
establish themselves where they please. These two classes of 
persons are of little, if any, use anywhere, and can be very well 
spared from our own " Sunny South " ; but there is another 
class that is being induced to leave us, who will, if they re- 
main, contribute largely by their energy and industry in doing 
all that can be done towards re-establishing us in a condition of 
independence, and to a great extent recuperate our now shat- 
tered fortunes. It is this latter portion of our people that we 
desire should remain, and not be led astray by the " wolf in 
sheep's clothing." It cannot be questioned that at this time the 
whole country is in a condition of greater pecuniary prostra- 
tion than we have ever before realized, and that our section 
seems to have reached so low a point as almost to have passed 
the limit that will justify the hope of recuperation ; yet we are 
satisfied " when things get to their worst they generally im- 
prove," and in this reflection there is room for a little hope, if 
not for great buoyancy of spirits. It is to be regretted that 



PREFATORY REMARKS. < 

the time of improvement in our circumstances is in the dim and 
distant future ; so far, indeed, that we are unable to penetrate 
the gloom by which we are surrounded, and through which 
there is scarcely a gleam of light to direct us on our way. The 
work of a people in recuperating their condition after 
such losses as we have sustained, in a financial point of view 
only, must necessarily be slow, and require time for its consum- 
mation ; but with us it can safely be said there is no foundation 
on which to build, or at least it is of such a character as to 
prevent our rearing a superstructure that will promise dura- 
bility and satisfaction. "We are deprived of our former labor 
iystem, that enabled us to increase our wordly possessions and 
enrich the North, and are now compelled to depend upon a 
system of labor that prevents the possibility of our raising our 
great staple productions at a price that will prove remu- 
nerating. Our cotton, that at one time enabled us to contri- 
bute so much towards defraying the expenses of the Govern- 
ment, can do so no longer, and those who have been engaged in 
its cultivation since the war, must discontinue it, as loss has 
attended nearly every effort to produce it by our own people 
who were acquainted with the plant, and a like want of suc- 
cess has attended the trials made by those who have come from 
other sections, and who knew but little of its cultivation, and 
whose capital was the only advantage they possessed over us. 
Again, it is well known that Europe no longer looks to this 
country for its supply of cotton, and that we have lost control 
of the cotton markets of the world, which was not the case 
before the war. We are without capital, and very few are will- 
ing to invest their means in our section during the present dis- 
turbed condition of our affairs. 
■ The destruction of our great planting interests has reduced 



8 



A TEIP TO HONDURAS. 



US to a consumiDg, instead of being, as formerly, a producing 
people, and we cannot expect for a long time to come that we 
will occupy any other position. The history of the world pro- 
duces sufiScient evidence by the experience of all who have gone 
before us, that a people to be prosperous must have the balance 
of trade in their favor, or at least there should not be such a 
difiference as at present exists between ourselves and the rest of 
the world. If we cannot raise the staples it was formerly our 
custom to produce in such quantity, and at such price as to 
enable us to govern the markets that required them for con- 
sumption, it may be well to ask what we can raise. There can 
be no doubt of our ability to produce all, or nearly all we may 
require to subsist upon, but what can we raise for export, and 
thereby prevent the excessive balance of trade being against us 
that we kuowj to have been the case during the past three 
years? The question is more easily asked than answered. The 
successful cultivation of the soil will insure prosperity in every 
business and pursuit, and a failure will produce .a corresponding 
or proportionate depression in every occupation the human 
family is engaged in. Although we have a climate as genial as 
any on earth, and a soil as rich, we must come to the unfor- 
tunate conclusion that our agricultural pursuits must languish 
for a time, and during that time we must remain a consuming 
people, and consequently be poorer to-day than we were yes- 
terday. For every evil there is a remedy, if we only knew how 
and when to apply it, and all who read these pages are as 
capable of applying it as myself, and it is hoped, more so*****^' 
These thoughts are suggested by the fact of our having been 
almost entirely engaged in planting, and but comparatively 
little in manufacturing, and show plainly how poor we have be- 
come as a people. This condition causes many to look about' 



PREFATORY ; REMARKS. *> 

them to endeavor to j5x upon some spot where they may have a 
more favorable prospect of making a living than at present seems 
to be the case here. The primary cause of the dissatisfaction 
of our people, and the cause of every evil we are now subjected 
to is, the political atmosphere of the country* and no apparent 
prospect of its changing for the better at an early day. We 
are politically nothing — taxed beyond precedent — denied repre- 
sentation — almost deprived of the ability to pay taxes, and 
without a voice in the formation of those laws by which we 
are to be governed — the party in power striving by every 
means in its power to place an inferior race in a position of 
political importance, and to even elevate to social equality a 
people it was undoubtedly the intention of our Creator should 
occupy a position below us, and be under our direction as cer- 
tainly as it was His intention that the superior should control 
the inferior. This is a gloomy array of evils, and should it not 
rather cause us to buckle on our armor and to make a powerful 
effort to keep this country under the control of white men ? 
There are thousands of our friends who must permanently 
abide here, come weal or come woe ; and should we not feel it 
incumbent upon us to remain and engage in that political con- 
test for supremacy which must eome sooner or later, and prehaps 
at an early day ? a struggle that will be more fiercely contested 
than any we have gone through when the sullen boom of artil- 
lery, the rattle of musketry, and the dying groans of our friends 
and relatives were heard — a contest fraught with more moment- 
ous issues than it has ever been the duty of a nation before to en- 
gage in, as it will settle the question whether we are to be slaves 
or freemen — whether we are to be governed by intelligence, or by 
an ignorant population, whose principal idea of liberty seems to 
be that it consists in the removal of every restraint, the absence 



10 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

of all law. Let us make a determined effort to save the old ship 
that has weathered so many storms, and is now in the breakers, 
aud in danger of being dashed in pieces, and not say we care not 
who is at the helm, or how fiercely the storm rages. If, after 
using every means at our commaad, the vessel is wrecked, we 
may then seize a plank and trust to the Giver of all Good to 
waft us to a harbor of safety. 

What have we yet done to check the current that seems 
hurrying us to destruction ? Nothing, simply nothing ; and the 
idea that we are too weak, is too feeble an argument for men to 
use who have undergone what we have from 1861 to the present 
time. What we have done since the close of the war has en- 
couraged the radical party to make greater demands than they 
would have thought of making, but for our concessions from 
time to time. 

We have taken counsel from our fears, and have done too much 
through policy, a fruit that has a most inviting exterior, but 
within is bitter indeed. Let us in future claim all we feel we are 
entitled to, and contend for it with all our power ; again I say 
let us do our duty, and if we are overtaken and overpowered, let 
every true aud honored southron be prepared to exclaim, 
" Shake not thy gory locks at me ; thou can'st not say I did it," 
and let him gather together the fragments he may have saved 
from the wreck, leave the home of his childhood, the graves of his 
kindred, and seek some land where he may have the satisfaction 
of rearing his children in the midst of those who have feelings in 
common with them, and with whom they may associate on terms 
of equality. We have sacrificed nearly our entire property in 
the vain endeavor to better our condition; and let us show to 
the world our willingness to make other and greater sacrifices, 
but not to the end that radicalism shall rule this land — the 



PREFATORY REMARLS. 11 

fairest of earth, and surrender to those who are in every way un- 
fitted to occupy it, the heritage of our fathers. 

No, rather than this should be, better, far better that this 
laud should sink, and that waves of ocean should roll over what 
was once a happy and a prosperous country — that the map of 
the world should show no spot once occupied by our territory— 
our names be a myth — our requiem be the howling winds and 
the roaring waves, and our dirge the scream lof the gull in his 
passage over our ruined homes and unknown graves. Better' 
far better that all save honor and the immortal soul should be 
lost, than that party whose motto seems to be equality, in every 
sense in which it can be used, should 'prevail. We can accom- 
plish something, and let us do what we can : and if we fail, we 
will have the proud consolation of knowing we made every effort 
to keep our country in the enviable position it has hitherto occu- 
pied among the nations of the earth. If despite our exertions to 
the contrary, our country should be brought to the humiliating fact 
of equality of races existing among us — when an inferior holds 
public position, and even serve in the capacity of representatives 
of the people, or when we are satisfied this will be the result of 
what is now transpiring, it will be well to surrender this land to 
our persecutors, and time will make known whether they have 
acted well or wisely. Let each and every one do what seemeth 
unto him best, keeping in view the fact that there is still 
a duty for all to perform, and which should be accomplished, if 
possible, regardless of what the consequences may be. "We have 
work to do not for ourselves only, but for generations yet unborn, 
and who will hardly think of us with veneration if we fail to 
exert ourselves in this crisis in a manner commensurate with the 
importance of the questions involved. It may be too late to ac- 
complish'good, but it can never be too late to make the attempt. 



six, 



12 A TRIP TO HONDUEAS. 

Under certain circumstances it will be seen I favor emigration 
and this may be the most favorable time for such a movement' 
At all events, I shall, on my return from Belize, publish all the 
information gathered in that country, and if it serves as a guide 
to even one in the formation of an opinion as to v^^hat is best to 
be done, some little good may be accomplished. 

It is my intention to get information from the most reliable 
sources, and to describe as nearly as possible what is seen, and as 
the trip is not for purposes of speculation, I hope to be able to 
give a correct, though condensed account of that distant land in 
every particular that promises to be of profit to those who con- 
template making it their future residence. -^ ***** * 

This is the land of my birth and where I had hoped to 
be able to live in the peaceful enjoyment of my own. It has 
been my desire here to be buried, and that my ashes might 
mingle with those of my kindred, but it may be otherwise 
ordained, and be my lot to repose in a land far distant from the 
scenes of my childhood ; and if so, I will cast the anchor of hope 
in such waters as my destiny may waft me to, ever trusting in 
Him who " doeth all things well," to carry me safely through my 
earthly pilgrimage and finally to a haven of eternal rest. 

Warren Co., Miss., Octohdr Ith, 1867, 



ID I ^ E. Y. 



December 26tb.— Our party, according to agreement, left 
" Old Warren " tliis morning by rail for Belize, via New Orleans, 
though two of our number remain behind and will follow by the 
next steamer, if we do not give such a representation on our 
arrival at our point of destination, as to make it unnecessary for 
them to come, as we can write by return of steamer, being in- 
formed she lies at Belize several days. We reached New Orleans 
in safety, at 8 A. M., and are now located at the St. Charles. 
Never before have I had such feelings as possess me at this time 
I know not how to express them. It is certainly nothing new 
for me to be absent from home, the late war having necessitated 
that from its beginning to its end, with the exception of a few 
days ; but this trip oppresses me with feelings of sadness. What 
am I about to do ? To leave my native land, it is hoped, for a 
short time, but to engage in a tour of observation for the benefit, 
I trust, of many, but not with the desire or intention to influence 
any. Not having inaugurated this expedition, as stated in my 
prefatory remarks, and representing others, it is my earnest wish 
to give a clear and unvarnished statement of all I see, and all 
that is heard from reliable sources, ever preferring an occular 
demonstration, when possible, to representations of any one, not 
because of a want of confidence in my fellow man, or fear of 
being -deceived, feeling satisfied that such letters as we carry 
will place us properly before the officials, but because such in- 
formation can not fail to be of a more gratifying character to 
those who desire facts, intermingled with no portion of fiction. 
2 



l4 A TRIP TO HONDUEAS. 

In the morning our party will proceed to get togethe r such 
articles as we raay need for the trip, not trusting to our getting 
anything at Belize. 

December 27th. — To-day was spent in completing our outfit, 
and in obtaining letters, in which latter undertaking we were 
very much assisted by General B., who secured for us an intro- 
duction to the British Consul, and a letter from him direct to his 
Excellency the Governor of Honduras. 

Decejiber 28th. — Not having quite completed our arrange- 
ments on yesterday, we are making a finish to-day, and must be 
on shipboard by 5 P. M., according to advertisement, though 
there is no absolute necessity for hurry on that account, as they 
are known not to be quite as punctual as the sun. Our pur- 
chases being completed, and on board at 4 o'clock, we left the 
hotel for the steamer Trade-Wind, expecting to be in the gulf 
before morning. The vessel was ready to sail by 7 o'clock, but 
a dense fog rising, we lay at the pier all night, much to our dis- 
appointment, as we are anxious to get forward as rapidly as pos- 
sible, but we must accept the situation as additional evidence of 
the fallibility of human calculation, which we can safely do with- 
out fear of being opposed by this cloud of vapor for any length 
of time. Would we could say as much of that cloud which 
obscures in its sable folds our political horizon, and now seems 
threatening to veil the star of hope with its funereal pall ; the 
first produces not a disagreeable sensation of chilliness, but the 
latter penetrating the inmost recesses of the heart and causing a 
degree of cold that cannot be removed by any ordinary means. 

December 29th. — This morning we find ourselves still at the 
pier, but not without hope of being able to get off in an hour or 
two. The fog disappearing at 7. 45 A. M., we left our moorings 
and may now consider ourselves on our way. This being Sun- 



DIARY. 15 

day, we had Divine Serv^ice ; the Kev. Mr. Morrill, of Texas^ 
preaching, who, although over sixty years of age, is on his way to 
a new country, and though in feeble health, does not fear to- 
brave any hardship he may have to encounter, or any privation 
he may be called upon to suffer. In the evening we had a dis- 
course from the Rev. Mr. Pearce, of Mississippi, who is on board 
with his family, and goes for the purpose of locating, though he 
has never seen the country. His faith and determination can- 
not but be admired, though I confess that it would require more 
than the writer ever had or ever expects to possess, to induce a 
move of the same kind. It is perhaps best that the Pioneer should! 
sever every connection with his former home, and then, if dis- 
satisfied with a new country at first, he will remain and eventually 
become reconciled to those customs and things that at first made 
an unfavorable impression, and might have induced a departure 
from a land that promised less than was expected. To-day has 
been gloomy, with rain, which increased as the day advanced,, 
and as we come to anchor, just inside the bar, there is every ap- 
pearance of a storm. Here we must lay till morning; it being 
impossible to go over the bar to-night. 

Our careful commander informs us it is possible we may have 
to remain at our anchorage for several hours in the morning. 

December 30th.~This morning it is cloudy, cool and windy, 
and our captain has determined to remain till the middle of the 
day, if the weather does not sooner improve ; he represents 
ihe outside to be pretty rough, with the wind in its present di- 
rection. There are many on board who would prefer smooth 
water, and though they were anxious to leave the Crescent City^ 
and have shown some impatience at each delay, are now willing 
to abide by the decision of one who has the reputation of being 
an excellent seaman ; all fearing sea-sickness, which is anything 



16 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

but agreeable, those who have experienced its effects state 
that when under its influence, is the best possible time for a man 
to take his departure to the land of spirits, and a person suffering 
from it will not unfrequently request to be rolled overboard, 
with the view of trying the water-cure. We trust our knowl- 
edge of it may be confined to what we have heard, not feeling 
anxious to verify those statements. By the way, we have been 
told by the initiated, it is not a bad plan to take a little spirits 
to prevent nausea. Not having tried it, can say nothing of its 
efficacy, but we can all add our testimony to the fact that the 
prescription is not a bad one, and having a supply of the medi- 
cine with us, it is not improbable we may try it. We have also 
been informed that champagne is very good for the same pur- 
pose, but as our finances are not in as healthy a condition as in 
former days, as "Bill Arp" said, when asked what state he lived 
in, " The less we say about that the better." 

At 11 o'clock, the wind having died away, and our pilot being 
on board, we weighed anchor and again pursued our way to 
tlie South-West pass, through which we make our entrance to 
the Gulf. We found a heavy sea outside, which soon caused 
sea-sickness with most of those who were for the first time being 
tossed upon the "briny deep." The writer was one of the first 
to succumb, notwithstanding the remedy above spoken of, and 
the most powerful exercise of the will in connection. There was 
no wish for the table during that day or the next, or the next, 
and the dinner bell was even resorted to with no effect. It is 
perhaps well enough to state here, that those who contem- 
plate making a sea voyage for the first time should be tho- 
roughly impressed with the fact that they are about to leave 
home, and home comforts, and shou'd prepare themselves in every 
way possible to meet the exigencies that may arise, and not 



DIARY. 1*? 

trust to obtaining them on shipboard, as those who have control 
of vessels are acted upon by the same influences that control 
persons in other situations in life, and feel that to provide for 
themselves is the first step, and, perhaps, with too many the last 
that should be taken. Let all be provided with such simple 
medicines as they are in the habit of using at home, with lemons, 
or sugar of lemon, which is very convenient, spoons, raug&, 
crushed sugar, ale or porter, and a small quantity of such liquors 
and wine as they may prefer ; feeling satisfied that by such 
means much suffering will be prevented : and even should the 
articles not be used and it should be necessary to throw them 
away, the loss can not be great. Five gallons of water and, if 
possible, some ice, would not be out of place in a voyage from 
New Orleans to Belize. 

December 31st.— The weather is cloudy, and with a good 
breeze and steam, we are making very good headway, and we 
earnestly hope to make a quick trip. Very few persons are able 
to be about, nearly all being confined to their berths. We have 
over one hundred passengers on board, with quite a number of 
ladies and children among them, and when mother and child 
are both sick, the poor little one sadly feels the loss of the 
parent's seothing influences, 

January 1. — We arc still tossed upon the waves and very 
few are in condition to eat a New Year's dinner, if within 
reach, but nothing is heard of any such preparation. For a 
time, though we are to bs separated from our homes, and to be 
surrounded by a waste of waters, which we may not inappropri^' 
ately consider emblematic of the present condition of our un^ 
fortunate and oppressed South, which seems separate from the 
world, and to occupy no political position, and which is lashed 



18 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

by angry political waters which threaten the destruction of tlie 
old Ship of State, we are united in our determination to carve 
out for our friends and selves some plan by which we may have 
a voice in the "laws by which we are g-overned," though of course 
we cannot expect to act in that direction any further than to give 
evidence of what will promote our welfare, and trust to the kind- 
ness of those in whose midst we may be, to feel and to exercise 
sufficient charity towards us, to cause them, in some measure, to 
provide for our political wants. 

January 2. — We find in our little vessel many geutlemen 
from Louisiana, Arkansas, Mississippi and from other Southern 
States, who, before the war were in affluent circumstances, and 
■consequently removed from the necessity of performing any 
l^ind of manual labor, now express their willingness to do. 
;as far as they are able, whatever may be necessary to en- 
able them to make a support for themselves and families. 
We have a most excellent list of passengers, and have been very 
fortunate in forming a party for exploration, consisting of some 
of the best men it has ever been our fortune to meet with. All 
seem firmly impressed with the necessity for a change, and the 
determination they evince, and the willingness they express to 
■combat any hardship they may have to encounter, and to over- 
come all obstacles that may be presented, is a pretty good evi- 
dence that success is likely to attend their efibrts, or at least 
affords us reasonable hope that such will be the final result. 

January 3. — The weather still continues somewhat cloudy, 
which is fortnnate for us, as the temperature is lower in conse- 
quence, though we have at no time since leaving New 
Orleans found it as high as in that city. Indeed, though we 
are approaching the equator, the remarkable fact has impressed 



DIARY. 19 

all, that the heat is less oppressive from day to day. To- 
morrow we should be at Belize, but the prospect now is that we 
will not reach our destination before the next day. Patience is 
a virtue, but all are extremely anxious to get where more free- 
dom of locomotion may be enjoyed. 

January 4. — To-day the hitherto unbroken and monotonous 
blank has been broken by the appearance of land, and all are 
cheered by the sight, and now feel satisfied this is the last day 
of our voyage, which has already extended to a greater length 
than any of us could have wished. Before leaving our homes, 
we were informed the trip would occupy four days ; by the 
time we reach New Orleans, five days, which by the time we 
reached the mouth of the river had extended to six, and our un- 
fortunate experience is that seven are required ; at least such 
has been the time on our passage, we having cast anchor this 
evening, at about 6 o'clock, off the town of Belize, British 
Honduras, and step number one may now fairly be considered 
terminated. 

Before leaving the scene T feel it to be my duty to speak in 
terms of praise of our purser, Col. Harney, who is an ex- 
confedcrate, and a whole-souled, liberal gentleman ; and of 
Mr. Scoville, chief engineer of the boat, through whose kiiid- 
ness we were supplied with one of the bec-t rooms on the vessel, 
he having with a spirit of liberality and self denial rarely wit- 
nessed in these days of selfishness, resigned to our use his own 
room, thereby subjecting himself to inconvenience, but we sin- 
cerely hope, not to discomfort. May he never feel the want of a 
friend, and may his pilgrimage through life be attended with as 
few obstructions as fall to the lot of man. We will ever hold 
him in grateful remembrance. We are all anxious to get ashore 
to-night, but having made earnest efforts to do so, and faihng, 



20 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

must rest content till morning. One thing is consoling, how- 
ever, we are in smooth water, compared with what we have 
passed over, and the vessel being still, have the prospect of a 
good uights's rest, which will be worth something to us, and in- 
deed is much needed by all. 

January 5. — We succeeeded in getting asliore this morning 
by 9 o'clock, and finding no hotel for our accommodation, for- 
tunately made arrangements with Mr. Mahler, an old resident 
of the place, to provide for our wants, which he did during our 
stay here, in good style ; taking the house formerly occupied 
ibr the same purpose by Mr. Ware. From this location we 
have a beautiful view of the Bay, and have nothing in front to 
obstruct the breeze, which is truly delightful. 

January 6 — To-day we have an opportunity of looking 
■around us, and must say our impressions of Belize, from report, 
have been very different from the reality. 

We find a very well built town of about 7000 inhabitants, 
and doing a very considerable business. 'J'he houses are mostly 
one story, but we will give hereafter a full description of the 
place and its surroundings. We to-day formed a party for pur- 
poses of exploration, consisting of the following gentlemen, who 
were passengers on the Trade Wind : 

l?ev. Levi Pear ce of Sharon, Mississippi. 

Col. J. F. Harrison of Tensas, Louisiana. 

] )anl. Swett of Vicksburg, Miss. 

Dr. G. r, Frierson of DeSoto, Louisiana. 

Dr. G. A. Frierson " 

Dr. R. F. Gray of Opelousas, '• 

Capt. W. Buckner of Tensas. 

J. S. Peak of Chicot. Arkansas. 

E. V. Frierson of DeSoto. Louisiana. 



DIARY. 21 



T. C. Frierson • 

T F. Owen of Catahoula, " 

Thos. P. Kane of Jackson, 

T F. Morris .of Batesville, Arkansas. 

Chas". Swett.. of Warren Co., Miss. 

and last, though not an unimportant personage, Wra. Owens, an. 
-American citizen of African descent," who accompanies, Col. H. 
to serve him in the capacity of cook, being an old servant of 
the Colonel. We to-day visited Mr. Jas. M. Putnam, formerly 
of the U. S., and who is at present acting as agent for the firm 
of Messrs. Young, Toledo & Co., of Belize, in the sale of their 
lands, and through his kindness received an introduction to 
Messrs. McDonald and Harrison, who are in charge of the 
business of the firm at this place. Onr interview was very 
pleasant, and we found these gentlemen ready to grant every 
facility in their power to enable us to carry to a successful issue, 
the objects of our mission. We were also introduced by Mr. P. 
to Mr. Mathe, with whom we spent a very pleasant hour in the 
evening, and obtained from him some very interesting facts con- 
nected°with his experience as a sugar planter, which we regret 
to say has thus far not proved very profitable. 

.January 7th.— Having letters to Gov. Longdon, we called 
upon his excellency to-day, being accompanied by Mr. P., and 
were very kindly received. While we were i.ot discouraged by 
the interview, we can say that Gov. Lcngdon did not at once 
accept as fact the many reports concerning the great agricultu- 
ral and planting properties of the Colony, but gave us every 
reason to believe that what could be done by the government, 
in conformity with its laws, to promote the welfare of emigrants, 
would be done, but at the same time would offer no extraordin- 
ary inducements to emigrants. Some of our party believing 



22 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

that they could become British Subjects, iu its most extended 
sense, were informed by bis excellency, that after they had se- 
lected the country as their place of residence, should they make 
application for letters of naturalization, they would be granted, 
but they would only entitle the recipient to colonial protection, 
while in the colony, and not to the protection of the British Gov- 
ernment when removed beyond the limits of the Colony. Some 
were much disappointed at this, as they had hoped by becoming 
citizens they would secure to themselves the guardian care of 
certainly the best government on earth, wherever they might 
be, so long as they claimed their home in British Honduras. 

January 8th. — Being busy to-day in completing our pre- 
parations to explore the bush, we again called in requisition 
the aid of our friend, Mr. Putnam, who is ever ready to 
assist all who visit Honduras to an extent that has, and will 
continue to trespass heavily upon his time, though he seems able 
to, or at least does, the work of about three men. Having 
deemed it best to do so, have secured a schooner, by charter, to 
convey us to any point we may desire to visit, and for an in- 
definite length of time. Our party being divided into com- 
mittees, in order to facilicitate business, we hope to be off to- 
morrow. Since our arrival here, the breeze has been constantly 
blowing very freshly from the bay, and at night we were lulled 
to sleep by its sighing through the lattice, the sound would 
alternately rise to Eolian sweetness, and almost die away, which 
was peculiarly grateful to the feelings, and far from being un- 
pleasant to the ear ; but what pleasure was ever unalloyed, or 
continued for any length of time without interruption ? The 
wind entirely died away at 8 o'clock this evening, and before 
ten changed to the north-west, causing an invasion of our 



DIARY. 23 

premises by such a force of sand Jiies as to render opposition 
futile, and we were punished to a degree that it is impossible for 
us to make known, but will ever be remembered ; being entirely 
without bars, except the writer, who was supplied with one 
made this morning, of muslin, but at the moment out of reach 
because needed. Suffice it to say for the pi-esent that, they gave 
no notice of their approach, came in immense force, and each in- 
dividual armed with what seemed to us to be a red-hot needle, 
which they used with a vigor worthy of a better cause, and 
served to admonish the poor "ex-confeds" that it was still their 
destiny to suffer. 

January 9th.- — This marning the wind is blowing from the 
opposite direction, sand flies are gone, and we will endeavor to 
forget the miseries of the past night, and more particularly, as 
we have determined .not to be checked by any obstacle or an- 
noyance we may meet with, but to battle cheerfully every 
opposing cause in striving for the end we wish to attain. Al- 
though we had fully expected to make a start this morning, the 
very disagreeable information is imparted to us that the vessel 
chartered yesterday can not go, and we are under the neces- 
sity of getting another. Fortunately, a schooner is in port from 
Omoa, which we have engaged, and which is now unloading, 
therefore can reasonably expect to leave Belize in the distance 
to-morrow, at furthest. It would have been better had we, 
visited the schooner before chartering her, but we did not, yet 
feel it our duty to make the following statement, in the hope it 
may be of some service to those who may hereafter be situated 
as we were. Between Omoa and Belize a considerable trade is 
carried on in swine, by means of schooners varying in capacity 
from ten to fifty tons, the animals being placed in the hold of the 
vessel. The schooner selected by us had just arrived with a 



24 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

cargo of this description, and though an attempt was made at 
cleansing, it became very apparent in the course of a day that 
the process might have been carried to much greater extent, 
with decided advantage. 

January 10th. — At 9 this morning we started for the, 
schooner " Three Sisters," of 11 tons, Capt. Francisco Solaro, 
which was anchored about half a mile from shore, though the 
Captain and crew did not come aboard till 2.45, P. M.,when we 
weighed anchor for Manatee Bar, eighteen miles distant, and a 
little west of south from Belize. The pilot who was to accom- 
pany us, came on board with the Captain, but without his know- 
ing it returned in the boat that brought them off. After sailing 
a mile, Ave came to anchor, and Capt. Solaro returned to Belize 
to investigate the conduct of the pilot. Being pleasantly-located, 
and a delightful breeze blowing from the north-west, must 
exercise patience, our stock of which we did not find excessive, as 
requisition has to be made in that direction very frequently, for 
very large quantities, to be delivered in the very best order, and 
immediately. At 3.45 the Captain returned without the pilot, 
and we again weighed anchor and proceeded on our way without 
that individual, although we feel the necessity of having one, as 
our captain does not know all the points we desire to visit. 
Having heard much of Spanish Honduras during our few days 
stay at Belize, several of our party desire to visit that country, 
whatever may be the result of our present trip, as it will occupy 
but a few days to do so, and we can then verify or disprove by 
occular demonstration the extravagant stories we have heard of 
the Republic. Thermometer, F. 6 A. M., 72 ; 12 M., 82i ; 6 P. 
M.,821. 

January 11th. — Finding that we could not reach Manatee 



DIARY. 25 

Bar before night, in conseqiieiice of our late start, have con- 
cluded to go on, and visit it on our return. At a reasonable 
hour at night we disposed ourselves for sleep ; the older gentle- 
men occupying the four berths of the cabin, others taking the 
hold of the vessel, and some using their hammocks, slung 
in the rigging : ourself and one other taking the top of the 
cabin, which was elevated a few feet above deck. At 12^ all on 
deck were aroused by a shower, delivered by a passing cloud, 
and which cooled the atmosphere to such an extent as to make 
two blankets decidedly comfortable, and of course one each was 
the extent of our supply in that direction. As for the wetting 
we received, our experience in that way has been too extensive 
in time past to give it a passing thought. It being so very cool 
we examined the thermometer and to our astonishment found it 
to indicate 83 ° •, although these is no breeze, and our vessel is 
drifting with the current. This remarkable difference between 
actual, and from one's feelings, apparent temperature, we will 
revert to again w^hen on the subject of climate. 

January 11th.— At 6 A. M. we were very near the mouth 
of North Stanu Creek, distant thirty-five miles from Belize, and 
made for it in order to go ashore. At 7 we cast anchor, and 
visited a Carib village located here, which we found to extend 
along the coast for the distance of half a mile, and to contain 
about 800 inhabitants, and a methodist and a catholic church. 
Mr. Brown, the police officer of the place, was absent, as w^as 
also the methodist minister ; therefore, we passed through the 
village and trusted to our observation for information. We 
found the houses to be built about square, eighteen feet the 
usual size, and to be constructed of studding, with cane of the 
country secured across them, and filled with clay ; the roof being 
very steep, forming an equilateral triangle, and being covered 
3 



2(5 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

with the split branches of the Cahooii palm. They have no 
chimneys, no windows with glass, nor floors, except those made 
of "mother earth." We here saw the manner in which the 
Cassava root ia prepared for bread. (See description of that 
root.) The root is grated and placed in a long tube, or bag, 
five feet in length and four inches in diameter, which is suspended 
from a beam till all sap of the root is drained from it, when it is 
sifted, made into cakes which are two feet in diameter, and one 
fourth of an inch thick, and baked. This is called Cassava or 
pilot bread, and will keep a very long time ; has a cream color, 
but though we have eaten much of it, do not think we would 
prefer it, under any circunstances, to the wheat en loaf or the 
corn cake of our country. Their graters and sifters we deem 
worthy of description, and are made as follows. The grater is a 
piece of mahogany 1 i inches thick, 18 inches wide and 2^ feet long, 
across which lines are drawn three-fourths of an inch apart, which 
lines are divided along their length so that the division lines will 
run diagonally, and at each point of division a hole is punched 
and a pice of broken pebble driven in that will not be more than 
half the size of a pea, and the grater is complete. The sifter is 
3 feet in diameter, and is made of split cane, through which the 
Cassava is rubbled by the hands, and not by shaking as with us. 
From eight to ten miles in rear of this place, though the distance 
does not appear so great, there is a range of high hills. The na- 
tives plant at and near the base of these, and depend upon the 
Belize market for the sale of all they have to dispose of. The 
coast is not more than two feet above the level of the sea, the 
waters of which are well stocked with fish, if we can rely upon 
the statements of the natives. 

We also saw^ quite a quantity of fish drying across poles. 
We here found a dory, made of Spanish cedar, which measured 



DIARY. 2T 

36 feet in length, 7 feet wide, 3 feet deep, li inches thick and 
elegantly modeled. After purchasing some oranges at 75 cent& 
per hundred, we returned to the vessel and at 9.20 A. M. 
weighed anchor for "All Pines," forty -five miles distant from 
Belize. The natives of the village just left were found to be- 
polite, and willingly answered any questions we propounded,, 
though they frequently manifested some surprise at our ignorance- 
of their manners and customs, and would laugh heartily at our 
description of the customs of our own country, and the differences 
that existed among us. They could all speak English, and we 
therefore had no difficulty in making ourselves understood. 
Cocoa nuts, oil from the cocoa nut, and oranges was all they 
offered for sale. 

On being asked why the oil was so white and thick, they re- 
plied, " it is because the weather is so cold ! " The thermometer 
at the time ranging as high as 76 ^ . There being very little 
breeze, we did not reach "All Pines" till 2.25 P. M., where we 
immediately went ashore for the purpose of visiting one of the 
sugar estates of Mr. Mathe. We found Mr. Debraam, whose 
residence is on the coast, immediately on landing, who received 
us very cordially, and expressed his regret that he could not 
furnish us with conveyance to the estate,, three miles distant,, 
that evening, there being too many of us to accommodate thus 
far, on thalimited notice given him, and as we were anxious tO' 
keep moving, at once proceeded on foot for the " Estate." For 
one-half the distance from the coast to the "Estate" we found 
the country at the time it was opened to have been covered with. 
pine, most of which had been made into lumber and sent to the- 
West Indies by Mr. Debraam. There is quite a large store near 
the coast, a very complete lumber mill, and a foundry, the pro- 
perty of the Estate. Over the distance between these two 



28 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

points is a most excellent road, which, for about half the way 
has been thrown up, at great expense, in order to avoid the mud 
of the wet season. The Estates, there being three in number, 
and not very far apart, Mr. Debraam superintends the whole, 
which are situated on the •' Sittee " river, and twelve miles 
from the coast by water though only three by land. 

On our way up we saw many cattle, though they did not look 
so well as we had reason to expect in this land of perpetual 
pasturage. Mr. Aquet, Mr. Savage and Mr. Hanson, who are 
in charge of different duties on the premises, very kindly gave us 
all- the information we desired. What we here witnessed would 
certainly astonish a Louisiana sugar planter. The places were 
opened in 1863, and Mr. Debraam informed us he expected to 
make six thousand pounds of sugar per acre, and there being 
four hundred acres in cultivation, it is a question for the 
juveniles to decide how much coffee it will sweeten. A gentle- 
man of our party who is well acquainted with the production of 
sugar, when told of the expectation as to yield, looked incredul- 
ous, but after making an examination of the growing crop, 
remarked that he was prepared to believe ten thousand pounds 
could be made to the acre if the yield should prove in proportion 
to the quantity of cane produced, taking the Louisiana yield as 
his basis. Plenty of the canes were two and a half inches in 
diameter and fifteen to twenty feet in length. The fields were a 
perfect mass of vegetation, the canes growing to a certain height, 
and under their own weight falling over and again growing up, 
forming curves not unlike the letter S when in this position gc. 
Many of us were at first disappointed because of the cane not 
growing higher, and one of our party caught hold of a top which 
was not more than three feet above the ground, and asked one 
of the gentlemen in charge of the place if he called that sugar 



DIARY. 29 

cane ; at tlie same time giving it a jerk, when it developed the 
fact that three feet was not its length, but eighteen, which 
proved satisfactory to all parties concerned. The buildings on 
the place are not constructed of brick, and might be more pro- 
perly called sheds, though constructed in the most substantial 
manner, with galvanized corrugated iron roofing, and the ma- 
chinery of the most costly and approved patterns. A very large 
sum has been expended, and thus far no return for the outlay of 
capital. No plows are used in preparing the ground, but holes 
are dug with a hoe or machete, in rows six feet apart and three 
feet in the drill, where the cane is planted in pieces from eight 
inches to one foot in length, and when once planted it is 
said to Tattoon for fifteen years, and has been known to do so 
for a greater length of time. The best time for planting the 
cane is in October and November, though it may be planted at 
any time during the rainy season — which is said to begin about 
the first of June and to continue to the end of the year. 

The grinding is commenced in from twelve to fourteen mouths, 
notwithstanding the statements that have appeared in print that 
two and three crops can be made in a year. Having made use 
of the word "Machete" for the first time, and its being an in- 
dispensable article in this country, it is as well to describe it here 
as elsewhere. (It is a heavy knife, from eighteen to twenty-four 
inches in length, and from two to two and a half inches in 
width, with a proportionate thickness, and is to the native, his 
axe, his hatchet, his saw, his plow, harrow, shovel, spade, hoe, 
pruning knife and weapon of defense. They never go to the 
woods without it, and we have seen them cut asunder logs eight 
and ten inches in diameter with them, though of course the 
implement would have been broken in the hand of one of less 
experience.) We measured at " All Pines " a Dorey that is 



30 .A TRIP TO HOXDURAS. 

perhaps the largest ia Honduras. It is thirty-five feet long, 
eight feet wide and four feet deep, and is to receive machinery 
that will weigh two tuns, and be used between this point and 
Belize for the benefit of the " Estates." (See article on Boats). 

On reaching the schooner, all were very tired, having walked 
continually since leaving the vessel, though we have all been amply 
repaid for the investment of physical exertion, for it can safely 
be said we have had ocular demonstration of at least one of the 
wonders of this said to be wonderful portion of the earth. Our 
next place of landing will be South Stann Creek, fifty miles from 
Belize, and it being close by, have determined to lay here to- 
night and make an early start in the morning. Thermometer 6 
A. M. 75i ; 12 M. 81 : 6 P. M. 80^. 

January 12th. — We weighed anchor at 5 A. M., and again 
cast anchor at South Stann Creek, near the residence of Mr. C. 
Ohamberlin, who has a large body of land at this point, pur- 
chased of Mr. Mathe. Mr. C. formerly resided at Natchez, and 
though he has been in possession of a large property, had his 
family living within reach of every luxury of life, and is now 
in possession of a much larger portion of this world's goods 
than is the case with most of us, this gentleman, with an elegant 
and accomplished family, reared in luxury, has chosen to lead the 
life of a pioneer in a comparatively unknown country, where law 
and order prevail, rather than to remain in a land where there is 
but little protection, and less prospect of accumulation. May 
they reap the reward of their determination, enterprise and self 
<ienial. Mr. C. having been here for a very short time, has 
made very little clearing, but having cut a road for ten miles 
from the coast to the interior, we passed over it under the 
guidance of Mr. Walker, and found the land very rich, with the 
Oahoon palm the prevailing growth. For half a mile back from 



DIARY. 31 

the coast — perhaps not quite so far — it will be necessary to 
corduroy in order to make a firm road, but beyond this nothing 
of the kind will be necessary. The ten miles of road terminated 
at a point on the creek where the bank was fifteen feet high at 
the time, though the creek was very low — yet there can be no 
doubt of its being navigable at certain seasons of the year for 
the " Dorey," We found in our walk a Caoutchouc or India, 
rubber tree that measured twenty inches in diameter and fifty 
feet to the first limb. A cut with the Machete caused the sap 
to flow very freely, and to thicken almost instantly under the 
action of the atmosphere— a portion of which we scraped ofi^, 
wrapped in a leaf, and placed among the curiosities in our ever 
present satchel. The sap, when it exudes from the tree is a 
light cream color, and the quantity that can be obtained from a 
tree is almost incredible ; the flow being much more rapid than 
we have ever seen from any other tree. At the landing we 
found a bamboo that was used as a clothes line, that measured 
forty-eight feet in length, five inches in diameter at the butt, 
and two inches in diameter at the other end where it had been 
cut off, and originally must have been at least sixty feet in 
length. AVe also saw an enclosure made with the Fimente, a 
species of palm growing from twelve to fifteen feet in height and 
three to four inches in diameter, very straight and without 
limbs. The fence is made in the following manner : The poles 
are cut six feet in length, driven into the ground four or six 
inches, close together, and poles of the same material are placed 
horizontally within a foot of the top on each side, and oppo- 
site, they are then tied with vines, and it is finished. This 
material is used very extensively throughout the country, for 
many purposes. Here we also saw some of the native weather- 
boarding, made from the cabbage or Koyal palm tree. This 



32 A TRIP TO HONDUKAS. 

tree has a very straight, smooth body, frequently being fifty feet 
high, and a foot in diameter. For half an inch of its depth the 
wood is solid, but the interior is pithy and not unlike the sugar 
cane in appearance. This tree is felled, and the exterior of the 
trunk removed in slabs from ten to fourteen feet in length and 
four to six inches in width. In ' using it for weather-boarding, 
one precaution only is necessary — be careful you do not delay 
the nail driving, for while you can by the use of a Machete bring 
down a tree a foot in diameter with a few blows, after these 
boards become dry they are only fit for the wood pile, as they 
are as hard- as horn. The natives will get out these boards for 
ten dollars per 1000 superficial feet, and furnish their own pro- 
vision. After enjoying the hospitality of Mr. C. and family 
during the day, we had a discourse from the Eev. Mr. Pearce, 
and at a late hour in the afternoon again boarded our water 
•craft, and at 6.15 weighed anchor and set sail for " Seven Hills." 
We had another rain at mid-night, but the deck is our place, as 
it is decidedly the most comfortable, rain or shine. The cabin 
and the hold are now decidedly uncomfortable, for two reasons — 
the want of breeze, and the absence of pure air ; those who have 
taken up their quarters below, finding it necessary to make fre • " 
quent and often very lengthy visits to the deck in consequence 
of the character of the vessel's last cargo. Thermometer 6 A. 
M, 80; 12 M., 82; 6 P.M., -81. 

January 13. — At 11 A. M., being opposite the mouth of the 
Rio Grande, 80 miles from Belize, and six miles from shore, in a 
perfect calm. Dr. G. A. Frierson and myself took the vessel's 
" Dorey " and two boys of the crew to go ashore for the purpose 
of getting guides and pitpans (see boats) of Mr. Bennett, man- 
ager of the Seven Hills sugar Estate of Messrs. Young 'ioledo & 
Co., to whom our party brought letters from the firm at Belize, 



DIARY. 33 

for the purpose. We landed on an island near the mouth of the 
river, after having paddled apparently over twice the distance it 
at first seemed we had to go, and though we found a large native 
house here, several smaller ones, and three Pitpans, thirty feet 
in length, concluded to await the arrival of a sail boat three 
miles north-east of us, and which we hope is coming to the river, 
before acting farther. Between the schooner and the shore we 
crossed a shoal that was very thickly strewn with the conch and 
star-fish, and made several attempts to obtain some with our 
paddles, but failed to do so — though the water was only five feet 
deep. The water on the bar at the mouth of the river we found 
to be four and a half feet deep, the river half a mile from its mouth 
being from seventy-five to one hundred yards wide. Soon after 
reaching the island, a fine breeze sprang up from the north-east, 
which makes it very pleasant sitting under the cocoa nut trees 
and indulging in the pleasing reflection that we will not be under 
the necessity of paddling a second time over this waste of water, 
as our vessel can not fail to be wafted towards us. We found 
on the island an almond tree sixteen inches in diameter but little 
fruit on it. The sail boat having passed us, we concluded to 
paddle to a village a few miles off, and proceeded but a short 
distance when the boys expressed a desire to return to the 
schooner, as she was heading for the north-east, and we were 
going from her. We gratified them, and it proved fortunate for 
us, reaching the vessel at 2.30, over a pretty rough sea for our 
little craft. A. native reached the schooner at the same time, 
who was on his way to Seven Hill Creek, on which Mr. Bennett 
lives. From this man it was ascertained we were too far south^ 
by eight miles. 

While returning to the vessel we saw a Caicken hawk, king 
fisher and snipe, which reminded us of — not home — but the land 



34 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

we left. As we paddled along the coast, before returning to the 
vessel, numbers of a variety of the sardine, of a beautiful purple 
and gold color, leaped into the boat. After the scales were 
scraped from them, they were so near transparent that print 
could be read though their bodies, though they were more than 
one-fourth of an inch in thickness. They cooked on the schooner, 
to-day, a cabbage from the cabbage tree, boiling it with bacon 
as seasoning, and which was found to be very much like the 
stalk of cabbage of our gardens, though more tender, yet like all 
substitutes was very far from the original. This cabbage is 
nothing more than the pith of the top of the trunk of the Eoyal 
palm, and may be obtained four inches in diameter and twelve or 
fifteen inches in length from a tree that is twenty feet high 
Beaching the mouth of " Seven Mile " creek, Mr. Morris, Dr. 
G. A. Frierson and myself proceeded up the creek to the re- 
sidence of Mr. Bennett, to whom we delivered our letters, and 
he promised to have at the mouth of the Moho river, 20 miles 
below Seven Mile creek, for our use, at day-light in the morning, 
two Dories, properly manned and with competent guides. Soon 
after we left the vessel a squall came on, with rain, but soon 
passed off. We were in it long enough to get wet, but are 
becoming accustomed to that occurrence in this latitude. Here 
we . made our first inquiry concerning the cultivation, or rather 
growth of corn, yield, &c. Mr. B. stated that he had raised two 
crops of corn, and two crops of rice in one year. (See article on 
Cereals.) This place was opened in 1866, the first cutting being 
done on the 19th of March of that year, and two hundred and 
fifty acres are now in cultivation, or rather planted in cane ; 
cultivation is no word in this country. We returned to the 
vessel after dark, and after reporting progress, it was agreed 
that the party should be divided ; one to take a boat and ex- 



DIARY. 35 

plore the Middle Eiver and Golden Stream, and the other the 
Moho and Rio Grande. The party to explore the first two 
rivers, near which we were then anchored, to start in the morn- 
ing with one of the boats, the other to go on with the schooner 
to the Rio Grande, where they would be left for the expedition 
up that river, and the schooner to proceed to the " Moho," still 
farther south, and anchor till all parties should meet again at 
that place. The party to go above and explore the Golden 
Stream and Moho rivers to consist of Rev. Mr. Pearce, Mr. 
Morris, Dr. G. A. Frierson and myself. Mr. Kane went ashore to 
inform Mr. Bennett of the change in our programme, and we 
gradually turned to our boards and blankets for the night. 
Thermometer 6 A. M., 79 ; 12 M., 82 ; 6 P. M., 81. 

January 14th. — Though we had a heavy rain last night, there 
is fair prospect of a good day for our expedition, and by 7 A. M. 
we were on our way for Middle River, which we found to have 
3 1-2 feet water at the bar, with mud bottom, into which the 
pole would sink very readily to a depth of two feet, which is 
favorable to navigation, all knowing the difference between 
grounding on mud and on sand. The river is one hundred yards 
wide at a distance of one hundred and fifty yards from its mouth, 
and for a distance of two miles is skirted with Mangrove to the 
water's edge, which growth is somewhat on the Banyan order, 
its limbs turning to the water and penetrating the mud at the 
bottom. The Mangrove for the distance mentioned is small, 
being not more than eight or ten feet high, but after passing the 
distance named it increases in size to eight inches in diameter 
and thirty feet in height. The Mangrove is a certain evidence of 
of swampy land, though not always found on low ground. For 
several miles up this river the land is reserved by Messrs. 



36 A TKIP TO HONDURAS. 

Toledo & Co., which information we received from one of our 
party who knew Mr. Bennett, and had been so informed by that 
gentleman. We found at the distance of three miles from the 
bar, timber growing to the waters edge, and but little Mangrove. 
We reached Swazey's landing, which is situated five miles from 
the bar and on the north bank of the river — at 8. 30 A. M. 
The bank at this place is three feet high, but at a distance of one 
hundred and forty yards back rises to an elevation of twelve or 
fourteen feet. This seems to have been selected by Mr. S. as 
a site for his houses, on account of its elevation, he being 
engaged in cutting Mahogany, but being about through, we 
were informed he would leave for another locality in a few weeks. 
Here was seen the first hive of stingless bees. They are about 
one third smaller than our bees, and producing a very fair 
quantity of honey, for workmen of their size, would be desirable 
in any locality where they would live. The hive is a hollow log- 
plugged at each end with wood, and of convenient length for 
hanging against the side of the house by means of vines. 
When it is desired to take honey, it is done by removing one of 
the plugs and breaking the cells containing the honey, by re- 
peated punching with a sharpened stick, when the opposite end 
is elevated and the honey runs out. The hive we saw was four 
feet long, and had a hollow about six inches in diameter, and is 
said to yield in February, at which time it is opened, from two 
to three quarts of honey, by the means stated. After remaining 
here a few minutes we moved forward. Three-fourths of a mile 
above Swazey's the north bank rises to four feet, the surface 
being covered with coarse grass, while the opposite bank is only 
two feet high. One fourth a mile further on the bank is not 
more than fifteen or eighteen inches high, the growth being 
Cahoon and Pimente. Here the river narrows to twenty yards, 



DIARY. 37 

with an occasional slough coming to it. We passed a tree fal- 
len into the water, on a limb of which we saw drift four feet 
above the surface of the water, which clearly indicates the stream 
is not always as low as at present. The place selected by Dr. 
F. G. Pew, of Arkansas, was reached at 8.30, the Doctor being 
found busy with his buildings and clearing. The bank at this 
point is six feet high, and though the stream is eight yards wide 
we are at the head of even Dorey navigation ; the bottom of the 
stream is rocky with several large rocks cropping out on either 
bank. From here, north, the guide informed us, the distance is 
twelve miles to the Golden-stream. Concluding to go a short 
distance into the country, we crossed the stream at 10. 15 and 
examined the land for a mile and a half, and returned to our boat 
thoroughly saturated with water, a very heavy rain having fallen 
during our trip, from which we had no means of protection. 

The ground was very sloppy, and we had some wading to do, 
though we crossed but one bayou, which will prove an advantage 
to the ground as a natural drain. Our boatmen, three in num- 
ber, were as wet as ourselves, but more provident, as they never 
undertake such expeditions without a " Patikee " in which to 
carry a change of clothing, aod any articles of convenience they 
may need. The Patikee is a basket made of the splits of a vine 
called centretie, and in the form of a trunk ; the basket sloping 
upward, in order that the top may fit tightly. These two are 
covered with palm leaves, and another basket is woven over each, 
when it is ready for use ; not a drop of rain being able to pene- 
trate it. 

Bidding adieu to the Doctor at 3 P. M., we moved down the 

river with the intention of camping near its mouth till morning, 

when we expect to ascend the Golden-stream. On our way 

down, seeing a piece of ground about 2 1-2 miles above the mouth 
4 



38 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

that was evidently higher than the surrounding country, and 
uot knowing its extent, we waded across the intervening Man- 
grove swamp, made an examination and found it to be small 
in extent, with a large lagoon bounding it on two sides. At 
5. 05 our boat landed at a small village, half a mile below the 
river's mouth, where we remained for the night. After cooking 
^nd disposing of our simple meal, and enjoying a cup of tea, 
furnished by the providence of Mr. Morris, we built a fire and 
engaged in the drying process, which occupied the night to a 
late hour. The fire was made of dry Mahogany, and we can 
testify to its being most excellent fuel, and the only thing that 
prevented our having a broil was the want of steak, beautiful 
coals being on hand in large quantity. The native closed his 
house at dark in order to keep out rausquitoes, all that were in 
the house having been driven out by the smoke. Mr. P. and Dr. 
F. slung their hammocks, Mr. M. and myself preferring the 
floor. We slept on a mahogany door, placed without hesitation 
on the vulgar dirt for our accommodation. Themometer 6. A. 
M. 79 : 12 M. 78 : 6 P. M. 79. 

January 15th. — Left camp this morning for the Golden- 
stream, finding four feet water on the bar, with mud bottom. 
For a distance of four miles the shore is very low and covered 
with Mangrove, after which timber comes to the waters edge 
and Pimento is very thick. There is also more or less Man- 
grove which here grows to forty and fifty feet in height and a foot 
in diameter — would have taken it for something else, but for the 
opinion of the guide. At the distance of six miles from the bar, 
came to a boom placed across the river to catch Mahogany logs, 
which was crossed without difficulty. Seven miles from the 
mouth of the river there is three feet bank, with cahoon in abun- 
dance, the stream being forty yards wide, with twelve feet water. 



DIARY. 39 

Half a mile further on ^ye came to another boom, with several 
hundred Manogany logs, some of them being three feet in di_ 
ameter and fifty feet in length ; which was crossed after very 
considerable effort and we again moved forward. Antonio (our 
guide) informed us that he worked at this point for three years, 
and that as we ascend the river the land will be found higher. 
Half a mile further up we were at another boom, larger than the 
one just crossed and so jammed that no opening could be made- 
without great exertion, and would occupy the entire day. Not 
feeling disposed to be stopped by such obstacles, it was suggest ed 
to Antonio that we make the attempt to cross, which he did not 
oppose, we having found him at all times very accommodating, 
but being informed of another boom a short distance above this 
concluded to go ashore and examine the country, though we 
were very anxious to go higher. Lauding at 12. 15 P. M., we 
followed the course of the river through water and swamp for 
the distance of a mile and a half, frequently wading to our 
knees, when we came to the boom we were told of, which ren- 
dered it ulmost unnecessary to cross the one where the boat was 
secured. The river is here forty yards wide, with plenty of 
water, and distance from the bay nine miles. The bank is three 
feet high at this point, and gradually rises till at a distance of 
thirty yards from the water's edge, it is about ten feet high. 
From this place we moved in the direction of Swazey's land- 
ing (southward) for a distance of one and a half miles, and 
found a very good country, covered with Oahoon and an under- 
growth, not dense, about the size of hoop poles. Coming to a. 
creek which we found to be deep, and not being able to ford it,, 
returned to the boat and at 2. 45 again turned our faces towar<J 
the '* briny deep, " reaching the camp of last night at 5. 15. 
Eequesting Antonio to make all things ready for our departure 



40 A TRIP TO HONDUKAS. 

at once for the mouth of the Moho, where we expected to find 
the schooner, he at once proceeded to do so, and at 6 with sails 
hoisted, though very little breeze, w^e were on our way and 
reached the schooner soon after mid-night. On our way down, 
and when about'half an hour out, Antonio boarded the schooner 
Zenobia, bound for Seven Hills, and the property of Young, 
Toledo & Co.; he obtained a bottle of Anisette, which caused 
the blood of the entire party to flow less sluggishly, and brought 
from "Herardo" and "Simon," two of the crew, several Spanish 
songs, which, together with our sail down the coast with a very 
gentle and steady breeze, and the rippling of the water as we 
passed through it, made the trip one of the most pleasant we 
will probably make during our stay in the country. Most of the 
party left on the schooner when we departed for Middle river, 
had gone up the Moho, and we concluded to camp on shore, 
and follow them after breakfast in the morning. Thermometer, 
6 A. M., 80 1-2 : 12 m. 82 : 6 p. m. 80. 

January 16th. — At 8. 25 we left for the Moho, finding 

feet water on the bar, and the width of the stream two hundred 
yards from the mouth, to be one hundred and fifty yards, which 
is preserved for three fourths of a mile. The south bank, for 
the distance of a mile is skirted with Mangrove which is larger 
than that found on either the Middle river or Golden-Stream ; 
the same growth being on the north bank, though smaller. 

Three fourths of a mile from the bar a small stream one and a 
half miles in length, which the natives call '-Amargo," enters the 
river. At the distance of one mile from the bar, timber comes 
to the w^aters edge on either side. We tried the temperature of 
the water and found it to be 76 deg., while the atmosphere was 79 
deg. The water is clear and very palatable. One and a half miles 
from the bar, timber occasionally recedes from the bank for a 



DIARY. 41 

distance of several hundred yards, the intervening space being 
covered with Mangrove, which continues for a mile, when timber 
takes almost entire possession. Not till we had passed over a 
distance of three and a half miles, did we find Cahoon, and then 
only one occasionally. At 12 M. we reached the camp of Capt. 
J. E. Smith, Civil Engineer, who has a number of assistants and 
is engaged in surveying land for Messrs. Toung, Toledo & Co., 
of Belize. This camp is six feet above the level of the river, 
but the ground recedes. A short distance below here we landed 
to examine a native's plantation, containing six or eight acres, 
where we found growing the Pine-apple, sugar-cane, cassava, 
yam and Indian-corn]; the owner being in the employ of Mr. 
Swazey and living On Middle river, many miles distant. The 
river at Camp Dwight, Capt. Smith's present locality, is 
sixty yards wide and no bottom with a 20 foot line. Rock was 
occasionally seen jutting from the bank as we paddled along, 
though none^was visible on the surface of the ground. A heavy 
rain kept us here till 1. 25, when we again pushed out with the 
hope of overtaking Col. Harrison, who preceded us, having left 
the vessel yesterday morning, and Camp D wight at 6 A. M 
to-day. Previous to to-day we have been surprised at the scar- 
city of animal life, so much so that the reader will remember our 
having mentioned seeing several birds, known to us in the States, 
but a short distance from Camp Dwight we saw the Iguana in 
immense numbers, and many birds of beautiful plumage which 
were unknown to us. 

Dr. Frierson shot an Iguana that measured nearly four feet in 
length, the body being about three inches in diameter at its lar- 
gest part. For the distance of four miles above Camp Dwight 
the river is fringed to the water's edge with bamboo, and has an 
average width of fifty yards. Meeting Col. Harrison, we return- 



42 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

ed with hiDi, reaching the schooner at 6. 20., where the Colonel. 
gave us the following accunt of his trip. "Found five feet water 
at the bar, crossed first rapids sixteen miles up, and the second 
twenty miles from bar, finding two and a half feet water on them 
and a fall of three feet in one hundred yards ; the rapids exten- 
ding for several hundred yards, ho attempt was made to cross 
them. Here the party landed, and alter going two and a half 
miles north, came to a bayou twelve feet wide, with six feet bank, 
but land flat and wet. Cahoon was found one mile from bank 
of river. Several gentlemen went south to the base of a moun- 
tain or large hill which was found to be less than a mile from 
the river." Col. H., when we met him on his return, was in 
company with several boats containing persons engaged in the 
same undertaking as ourselves, and whom we did not know, 
none of whom expressed themselves satisfied with what they had 
seen. Most of these persons had their camp at Ponto-Gordo, a 
few miles north of the Moho and on the coast. The expedition 
up the Rio-Grande was made by Capt. Buckner, Mr. Peak and 
Mr. Owen. From the Captain we received the following report. 
^' Left the schooner soon after you did, entering the river at 9 A. 
M., and finding it one hundred and fifty yards wide, one hun- 
dred and fifty yards from the mouth, which width it retains for 
half a mile, where it diminishes to one hundred yards ; Mangrove 
growing on either side. One and a half miles up, timber reaches 
the water's edge on the north side, where the bank was found to 
be five feet high, which continued about the same heighth as far 
as "Big-Hills," which are ten miles from the bar. There arc two 
other above this, the first being half a mile distant and the other 
one mile ; at the base of which is an old Spanish settlement, 
with Cocoa nut and Banana trees growing. (Why was this 
place abandoned ? ) These hills are about as high as the seven 



DIARY. 43 

hills — say one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet. At a dis- 
tance of sixteen miles from the bar, came, to a camp established 
by mahogany cutters, where the party ! landed and entered the 
bush for half a mile, but not finding the land to be what they 
desired returned to their boat, where a native informed them 
they could go as far as the rapids, thirty miles above, but no 
further. From this place they returned to the schooner. Ther- 
mometer 6 A. M. 71 : 12 M. 77 : 6 P. M. 77^." 

January 17th. — At 9 AM. our anchor was again brought to 
the surface and we filled away for Livingston, Guatemala, at 
the mouth of the Dulce river, which flows from lake Isabel. We 
saw on this coast the highest land ^^e had seen since leaving 
Belize ; the mountains frequently coming to the sea. Rain con- 
tinued during most of last night, but we remained on deck, and 
succeeded in protecting ourselves pretty well by means of an India 
rubber coat and umbrella, and in a setting position, slept soundly, 
as we had often done before. At noon we tried a stewed 
Iguana, prepared in the most approved style by the schooner's 
cook, and\after laying aside all prejudice, it was pronounced 
equal to young squirrel in delicacy of flavor. To-day was 
showery ani disagreeable in the extreme. A squall struck us at 
1. 20 P. M., which made the little vessel enter the harbor of Liv- 
ingston with great speed, and we came to anchor at 1. 40. At the 
time of our leaving Belize there was some cholera reported at 
the place, which was not unknown at Livingston. Soon as we 
anchored a health oflBcer came aboard, and we were informed it 
was necessary for us to go into quarantine, for several days, before 
we could come on shore. This was a disappointment, as we 
desired to visit lake Isabal, and to ramble over a little high 
ground, but could not think of subjecting ourselves to the modest 
requirement of several days quarantine. Not being able to go 



44 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

ashore we succeeded in replenisliing our stock of fluids with several 
bottles of native rum, though the person who brought it out 
could not tread the deck of the vessel. Presume the health of 
ficer thought he was perfectly safe along side — we sincerely hope 
he is still living. As this section of the world is said to be 
infested with snakes, and alcoholic liquor being considered iu our 
land a specfic for their bite, on the principle of alcohol not being 
digested) but passing ofi" through the circulation, and one poison 
neutralizing another, we can confidently recommend the rum of 
Livingston for the purpose named, as we certainly never tested 
such villainous stuff before, during the whole course of our lives, 
not excepting the Pine top Of Confederate times which it leaves 
in the shade as completely as the "God of day" does the reful- 
gent beams of a farthing rush light. Thanks, however, to the 
gentleman who was kind enough to obtain it for us, it was 

undoubtedly the best he could do. We also obtained of Mr. 

a bunch of fine fish which were the first since leaving Belize : 
having failed in all our efforts to catch any by trolling as we 
sailed along the coast. Livingston seemed to be a very small 
place, we saw only a few houses, near the bluff, on which 
it is situated, and which is from twenty to thirty feet in 
height. At 4 o'clock, the stiff breeze from the north-west that 
prevailed at the time we cast anchor having subsided, we moved 
away from Livingston in the direction of Omoa, in the Republic 
of Honduras. Thermometer,' 6 a. m. 72 ; 12 m. 75 ; 6 p. m. 74. 

January 18th. — A heavy rain this morning at an unseason- 
able hour stirred up the deck sleepers, and^the water was so 
rough that several of the party were sea-sick. As we sailed 
along, the coast presents the same appearance as at and near 
Livingston, the mountains coming to the sea. We ought to 
have reached Omoa during the night, but did not till a late hour 



DIARY. 45 

in the afternoon, and while rapidly approaching the harbor the 
captain was hailed from a small boat, in a language we did not 
understand, but its magic effect was at once visible, for never 
did anchor of the same weight reach bottom quicker in the same 
depth of water than did that of the '•' Three Sisters," and we 
were still. Horror of horrors, the authorities are afraid of chol- 
era, — but will see us in the morning. Visions of quarantine rise 
before us, shutting out from our view all that is beautiful, and 
crowding from the memory all that is hopeful. One thing we 
felt assured of, if they wanted a cholera germ at Omoa, it would 
only be necessary to keep us in the Pig-sty we were occupying 
and they would get it of the most virulent type. We deter- 
mined to go ashore the next day, if not at Omoa, at some other 
place. For some days past nearly every hygienic law has been 
transgressed, and for the first time in our life we were inclined 
to doubt that " Disease is in many cases consequent upon the 
violation of a law of nature." Thermometer 6, A. M. 77 ; 12 M; 
78^ ; 6 P. M. 79. 

January 19. — We passed a very disagreeable night, having 
frequent showers, but were cheered by the sun's appearance at 
7 .30, and we proceeded to " hang out " our clothes, blankets, &c. 
Having left nearly all our baggage at Belize we frequently find 
it difficult to raise a dry garment when the rain continues. The 
celebrated fort of Omoa is within a short distance of us, but the 
town is half a mile back, and looks rather small for its age. 

At 8 A. M., Dr. De Soto, the health officer came on board, 
and finding each individual in possession of a cup of coffee and 
hard tack concluded we were all right, and returned to report. 
In an hour and a quarter, seemingly a very long time, permis- 
sion was granted us to go ashore, of which we were not slow to 
avail ourselves, and very soon all were once more on Terra 



46 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

firma. We " put up " at Belisle's Hotel, and had the best of 
the season placed before us in the greatest variety and prepared 
in the most approved styles. Belisle or as he is called by most 
persons the " Judge," is quite a noted individual — holding 
several offices of a civil character, and is the only hotel keeper 
in the place. You are not roused from your slumbers by the 
discordant gong, or the unpleasant bell, but by the dulcet notes 
of a very large hand organ, which is played with great skill by 
the judge himself. 

We have yet to hear of the first person going to the Judge 
hungry and leaving unfed, or going without money and going 
away empty. We were the recipients of many kindnesses from 
the Judge, in the case of articles left with him, and in other ways, 
and on all occasions found him equal to any trust confided to 
him. We reached shore in time for breakfast, which, according 
to the custom of the country is placed on the board at 10 A.M., 
coffee having been served at 7, and which is considered sufficient 
foundation, but confess we always felt, before the breakfast hour, 
that our foundation would hardly support the superstructure we 
expected to place upon it. 

At 1 P. M., Col. Harison and myself obtained horses and 
under guidance of a gentleman who had visited the coast, made 
a trip to " Port Cabellos," about ten miles distant, and the 
northern terminus of the projected interoceanic raih'oad that is 
to run from the bay of Farseca on the south, and which was 
surveyed by Mr. Trautwine in 1858 at an expense of two hun- 
dred thousand dollars. The length of route surveyed being 
about one hundred and fifty miles. We passed on our route a 
tree of gigantic size said to be the one under which Cortes gave 
"Gracias a Dios'' for his escape from the many perils by which 
he was beset in his travels. The port is situated at the head of 



DIARY. 47 

a beautiful bay and has one of the finest harbors in the world ; 
maps prepared in England from coast surveys, shew that the 
largest vessels can anchor within a very short distance of the 
coast in perfect safety, and small craft can come within one hun- 
dred yards of the shore. Col. McDermott and several others we 
found at this place, who intend locating near by, but had not, we 
believe, positively decided w^here. The colonel seemed very 
enthusiastic, and we certainly hope he may realize every ex- 
pectation. At 4.30 we started on our return for Omoa,- but in 
consequence of the character of the road over which we had to 
pass, much of it being at the beach, and the surf rolling in very 
heavily, concluded to stop for the night with the magistrate of 
Cienagueta, Mr. Eobinson, who placed before us for supper, 
coffee, wheat bread and fried Panot. We are learning to eat 
what is placed before us, and seldom ask questions. The Panot 
we found to appear and taste much like the flesh of the Dorey ; 
the meat on its breast being quite an inch thick, and very tender. 
We hoive tried to eat Panot since then, and to place ourselves 
right and not to appear to occupy a false position, will state that 
they were invariably so tough that parboiling and hashing were 
necessary to enable one to think of attempting to digest it. 

On the route between Omoa and the port it is necessary to 
pass through two Oarib villages. Cienagueta and Tulian, and 
to cross the Tulian and Marquez rivers, the first by fording and 
the second by boat, leaving your horses behind. This river runs 
from the Marquez Lagoon, immediately in rear of the port, and 
fl.ows into the sea less than half a mile below. There are also 
several mountain streams of small size, all of which together 
with the Tulian, have rapid currents over rocky bottoms and 
the water very clear, cool and palatable. Thermometer 6 A. M., 
76 ; 12 M., 80 ; 6 P. M., 77. 



48 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

January 20th. — At 7 this morning we again made a start for 
Omoa, stopping on the way to examine a Cofifee Estate, or 
Eancho, which was the first we had seen. (For description see 
"Productions of Honduras") We were informed on this trip that 
the Chamlicon river could be navigated to witliin three miles 
of San Pedro Sula. If it is so, why pass over the mountains ? 
We will make further inquiry on this point. The road for two 
miles from Omoa was very sloppy, and when we reached town, 
at 9.10, we looked as though we had just made an extensive trip 
over a hitherto unexplored Louisiana swamp in the rainy season, 
and had several times lost our way. Having quite a quantity 
of clothing that rubbing as well as wetting will improve, several 
of us repaired to the Omoa river to see what improvement we 
could make in their appearance. We washed and spread on the 
rocks, and by the time the last was spread the first were ready 
for the ironing room. In the afternoon. Dr. Gray, Dr. Ryan, 
Rev. Mr. Pearce and Mr. Morris engaged a Dorey and started, 
the first for lake Isabal, Dr. Ryan for Porto-Gordo, where he 
left his family, and the Rev. Mr. Pearce and Mr. Morris for 
Belize, via " Seven Hills." 

The rest of us, except Dr. G. P. Friersou and Mr. Daniel 
Swett, who will remain here, or endeavor to reach San Pedro 
via the Chamlicon river, hope to get ofi" to-morrow, taking the 
mule and mountains as our mode of conveyance and route. Col. 
H., Dr. F., Mr. D. S. and myself paid our respects to-day to the 
Commandante of Omoa, Genl. Espanoza, by whom we were very 
kindly received, and who expressed great satisfaction at the 
prospect of our citizens emigrating to the Republic ; making 
known to us that land could be obtained gratis, and if we should 
be so fortunate as to find an unclaimed gold mine, that tlie 
authorities of the nearest municipality would cause to be sur- 



DIARY. 



49 



veyed a certain distance north, east and west, of the point we 
should designate, which would establish our claim. It is hardly 
necessary to say we did not have any surveying done. Thermo- 
meter 6 A. M., 72 ; 12 M., 801 ; 6 1\ M., 78. 

January 21st.— At 9 o'clock this morning we were mounted 
and off for the far famed San Pedro Sula, and reached the Ran- 
ch© Grande, eighteen miles distant, at 3 P. M., where we had 
the pleasure of meeting Mr. Reynaud, owner of the premises, 
and Governor of the Circuit of San Pedro ; and saw the opera- 
tion of winnowing coffee to remove the husk, which is done by 
the ordinary fan mill, which we found on examination to have 
been made by Allen & Co., of New York. Here we saw coffee 
in every stage, and were informed by the Governor that he has 
forty-five hundred bearing trees, producing, he can not say how 
much, but will know at the close of the season, as he is keeping 
an accurate account of the crop as gathered. (See productions 
of Honduras.) The residence at the Rancho is constructed in a 
very substantial manner, of brick, plastered inside and out, and 
covered with tiles. The plantation is in a bowl, surrounded by 
mountains, and is said to be twenty-five hundred feet above the 
level of the sea. The Rio Grande, about forty yards wide, clear 
and cool from the mountains, flows by a short distance from the 
house, and is easily forded, To-day has been cloudy with occa- 
sional showers, and though the thermometer indicates 77 deg. at 
4 o'clock P. M., our feelings are decidedly in favor of fire, which 
would be very comfortable. Thermometer 6 A. M. 74, 12 M. 
74i, 6 P. M. 73i. 

January 22d. — Left Rancho Grande at 7 this morning, reach- 
ing the foot of the mountains on the opposite slope at 9.10, and 
moved along their base for a distance of fifteen miles through 
5 



50 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

a beautiful avenue formed by the branches of the Cahoon Palm 
that gracefully curve over the road, in many places entirely shut- 
ting out the sun's rays. Stopped at the village of Chiloma, on 
the Chiloma river, for breakfast at 10.40. We found here the 
Umbrella China tree growing in perfection, which we never saw 
in Mississippi, though it is planted in Texas for its shade. At 
12.30 P. M. we were again in the saddle, and crossed the Eio 
Blanco four miles from San Pedro, which we found to be forty 
yards wide, very shallow, sandy bottom and water warm and very 
unpalatable ; the Thermometer indicating in the atmosphere 83|- 
and in the water 89 deg., time 2.30 P. M. Two miles frem San 
Pedro we crossed the Mermijo, fifteen yards wide, and about twelve 
to eighteen inches deep — the same as the last two crossed — 
water clear and bottom sandy. Several fields of Corn were 
passed by us, and a field of Cotton, entirely stripped of foliage. 
Our journey terminated at 3.20, and we found ourselves in a place 
where the houses did not prevent our seeing the town. Through 
the kindness of Mr. Reynaud we were provided with an excellent 
dinner, to which we did ample justice. Thermom. 6 a. m. TO : 
12 M., 79 ; 6 p. M., 78. 

January 23d. — We breakfasted at 11 A. M., though coffee 
was served at 7, mounted our mules at 12, and accompained by 
Maj. G. Malcolm rode around to inspect the country ; following 
the Comayagua road, running south from San Pedro, for half 
a mile, at which point we left it, moving to the east-cro3sing 
the Tipiaca two miles from town and following the same road to 
the Rio Blanco, four miles from town, beyond which the land is 
claimed by Mr. Debrot, of Omoa. On our way back we passed a 
cotton field which we were informed was without leaves three weeks 
ago, but is now in full foliage, though the genuine Army worm 
is again at work and will soon have it stripped once more. The 



DIARY. 51 

country over which we passed is very flat, with Cahoon the 
prevailing growth, though the soil contained a very large pro- 
portion of sand. The rivers above named are quite saiall, being 
from fifteen to twenty yards wide at the time we visited them, 
and about two feet deep, with sandy bottoms, though the water 
was not very clear nor cool, but palatable. We reached San 
Pedro in time for dinner at 5 ; the order of our meals will 
in future be as follows : Coffee at 7, breakfast at 11, dinner at 
5. Thermometer 6 a. m., 75 ; 12 m., 78^ ; 6 p. m., 78. 

January 24.— At 8.30 this morning we were again on the 
way to continue our explorations, Maj. M. again accompanying 
us. Our object to-day being to strike the Tacomiche river 
immediately below the junction of the Tipiaca and Blanco, which 
form it. The general direction of these rivers is south-east, 
and their waters flow to the Ohemlicon, the general direction of 
which is north-east to the Gulf of Honduras. After passing 
over the road pursued yesterday for two and a half miles, we 
turned to the south-east, crossing more wet land than we ex- 
pected to see, and passing over quite a large piece of ground 
covered with very coarse grass growing from three to four feet 
high. Our conjectures were that a swamp must be near, and 
though we had a guide and several men armed with the Machete 
to cut the way, our fears were soon realized ; our horses moving 
forward with difficulty, which increased till necessity compelled a 
return. On the way out, the animals we were riding fell, but rose 
without our dismounting, and despite their exertions, fell again, 
and being unable to rise we dismounted and waded out, when 
the course was changed further to the south, which we followed 
till satisfied we were on a large body of good land when we 
struck for the Comayagua wood, which was reached two miles 
from San Pedro. From this point several of the party returned to 



52 A TRIP TO HOXDUEAS. 

town, while Col. H., Capt. B., Dr. F. and myself concluded to 
visit the Chamlicon river, said to be five miles distant. On our 
way we crosed the La Puerta, three miles from town, which is a 
very small stream, and a few hmidred yards beyond turned to 
the left in order to follow the Comayagua road, the other cross- 
ing the mountains close by. . The river where we struck it 
is from seventy five to one hundred yards wide, with two and a 
hah'" feet water on .the rapids at this point, and has all the 
characteristics of mountain streams, being clear, cool and drink- 
able. After enjoying the luxury of a bath, we retraced our steps 
toward San Pedro, meeting our Chefde cuisine, whom the Colonel 
had sent back to obtain refreshments for the inner man. Seating 
ourselves on the grass a hearty meal was soon made on eggs, 
corn bread and beef. It may be well to state that this proved 
to be the first and last time we had corn bread placed before 
us during our stay in Spanish Honduras, and up to this time 
have seen no preparation of flour since leaving Omoa. 

After our meal, Col. H. and myself started for the mountains, 
two and a half miles east of San Pedro, but the day being far spent, 
with every prospect of rain, returned to our quarters. The dis- 
tance from San Pedro to the Chamlicon by the Camayaguaroad is 
seven miles ; three miles of the way being almost entirely level; 
and could with little labor be made an excellent carriage road. 
Beyond the " Puerta '' the road is very rocky for most of the 
way to the river. The land seen to-day is generally better than 
that ^seen yesterday, covered with cahoon and having several 
naturul drains running through it. At the Puerta musquitoes 
annoyed us very much, though we were not troubled by them 
yesterday nor to-day up to this time. We have found bars un- 
necessary to our comfort at San Pedro, not having seen, felt or 
heard a musquito at that place. Thermometer 6 A. M. 73^ ; 
12 M. 82 ; G P. M. 78. 



DIARY. 53 

January 25.— Our attempt to reacli the Tacomicbe yester- 
day proving unsuccessful, though it is reported to be only five 
miles from San Pedro, we were again in the saddle this morning 
at 8, to try another route, which we did by keeping a general 
course to the southeast from San Pedro till we reached what 
the natives call the Tipiaca mountain, about five miles from 
San Pedro, and no river being in sight we deemed it best to return 
and adopt some more certain method of accomplishir^g our 
object. On our way this morning we passed an old planta- 
tion of 62 Cocoa trees quite full''of fruit. Over a considerable 
portion of our route to-day the country presented the appear- 
ance of olice having been in cultivation, and on making enquiry 
concerning it, we received the assurance that such was the fact. 
Why was the cultivation of this section discontinued by those 
who burnt the bush and ate the produce of the soil perhaps a 
century ago ? The land examined to-day was^ found to be of ' 
every character known to this country, except rocky ; at times 
covered with cahoon, and high and dry, with very rich soil ; and 
at other times lower and wet, with the same growth, when it 
changes to a gravel sub-soil but a few inches below the 
surface, and at times to portions covered with heavy grass. We 
have frecjiiently been surprised to find so large an admixture 
of sand where it was reasonable to expect but little, though 
the growth even on such land was very heavy, and the cahoon 
nearly always present in greater or less quantity. On our re- 
turn to San Pedro we were much disposed to think the guide, who 
has made two unsuccessful attempts to convey us to our point 
of destination, unreliable, and it was determined to employ 
another, who said he could find the river, if we would furnish him 
with men to assist in cutting, and pay him if he accomplished his 
object ; if not, no pay. Many lime trees were found to-day, 



54 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

the fruit being quite as large as the lemons imported into the 
United States. The natives being thirsty drank from a 
water vine, a piece of which, four feet in length and three inches 
in diameter yielded a pint of very palatable fluid, devoid 
or any green or sappy taste, which quenched the thirst very 
quickly. This morning was showery, and we were alternately 
wet and dry, though we feel no inconvenience from it. Thermo- 
meter 6 A. M., 72i ; 12 M., 81 ; 6 P. M., 73^. 

January 26. — ^This morning we saw the first fog since leaving 
Belize. At 12 M. Col. H. and myself, accompanied bv Dr. 
Scott, who has for seven years resided at San Pedro, visited the 
site of old San Pedro, two miles south-west of the present town 
of that name, which we found^overgrown to such an extent that 
we saw nothing more than the remains of what we were told 
was the wall surrounding the place at the time of its destruc- 
tion. We moved on to where the Rio de los Piedras issues 
from the mountains, and following its course for a mile we 
crossed a stream known as Santa Anna, and at a distance of 
two miles from here, following the base of the mountains, we 
came to the Mermijo, at the point where it comes from the 
mountains. All these streams are clear, cool and very rapid, 
although small. ThQ San Pedro and iJzo de los Piedras MmiQ 
about four miles from where the latter makes its exit from the 
mountains, and not far below this the Rio de los Piedras unites 
with the Mermijo, near where the latter ^crosses the road from 
San Pedro to Omoa. Nearly all the country between San 
Pedro and the mountains, on the west, has at some time been under 
cultivation, but is now covered with undergrowth, except where 
small clearings have been recently made. Thermometer 6 A. 
M., 72 ; 12 M., 81^ ; 6 P. M., 76. 

January 27. — This morning, at 8.40, Messrs. Kane, Owen, 



DIARY."" 55 , 

Peak and Dr. G. A. Frierson left us on their return to Omoa, 
the first two intending to extend their trip to the United States, 
but soon to return, and the others to proceed to Belize for bag- 
gage left there by the entire party. 

William, our chef de cuisine, accompanied Mr. Owen to Louis- 
iana, but expressed his determination to return, and thought he 
would be able to bring others with him. Dr. F. and Mr. 
D. S. not having made their appearance, we have written 
to them to make the attempt via the .Zequisiesta, which 
empties into the Chemblicon, and is stated to be navigable for 
Dories to within fourteen and a half miles of San Pedro, 
whither we will send mules for them as soon as we hear of their 
having left Omoa ; the road being represented to be good. We 
will take a rest to-day, and hope to-morrow to be able to 
visit the Zacomiche. Thermometer 9 A. M., 69 ; 12 M., 78^ ; 
6 P. M., 77. 

January 28. — At 8.20 this morning our entire party was 
again in the saddle, Maj. Malcolm accompanying us, and we 
were off for the Zacomiche, which was discovered yesterday, 
crossing the Tipiaca two miles east of town, and taking a course 
east by south, we reached the river at 12. 10, about seven miles 
from San Pedro, and found it to be eight yards wide and three 
and a half feet deep. This is the river we were told would be 
navigated by a steamer to be brought out on the next trip of the 
Tradewind. Most of the land passed over was found to be 
much the same as that already described. At the water's edge 
we found musquitoes, but none as we approached the river, and 
as singular as it may appear, we took a nap within twenty yards 
of the water and were unmolested by them. Several Iguaiias 
were seen to-day, the first we have found since leaving the Moho 
in British Honduras. Most of the party engaged in fishing 



56 A TRIP TO HONDURAS.! 

catching several cats and one of a kind known to the natives as 
" Sleeping-fish," which was very much like the cat in appearance, 
but having scales. 

Captain Buckner took the guide with him and endeavored to 
reach the mouth of the river, which was supposed to be close by, 
but after going three miles, without success, gave it up and we 
all returned to San Pedro as soon as he rejoined us. Thermo- 
meter 6 A. M. 67 : 12 M. 85 ; 6 p. m. 81 ; 9 p. m. 75. 

January 29th. — This morning we accompanied Maj. Malcolm 
to his kitchen garden, where kale, mustard, turnips, tomatoes, 
snap-beans, okra, pumpkins and black-eyed peas, were found 
growing and looking well. His cotton field was also visited, and 
plenty of eggs found to produce another supply of worms, and 
TDut a few days can elapse before they will be at work, and the 
destruction of foliage is but a question of time, and a very short 
time at that ; notwithstanding, Maj. Malcolm and many whose 
fields have been stripped, still think they will make half a crop. 
Thermometer 6 a. m. 71 ; 9 a. m. 81 ; 12 m. 86 ; 3 p. m. 88 ; 6 
p. M. 80 ; 9 p. M. 78. 

January 30. — To-day being showery and very disagreeable, 
-yfe kept within doors. In the evening, though the Ther- 
mometer indicated 70 deg., we made a fire and sat near it with 
great comfort. Thermometer 6 a. m. 71 deg. 9 a. m. 72 deg. 
12 M. 72 deg. 6 p. m. 70 deg. 9 p. m. 67^ deg. 

January 31st. — The bad weather continuing, we made a 
feeble effort at visiting on a small scale, but most of the time 
kept our room, as rain fell at intervals during the entire day. 
Thermometer 6 a. m. 64 ; 9 a. m. 65 1-2 ; 12 m. 69 1-2 ; 3 p. m. 
70; 6 P.M. 72 1-2; 9 p. m. 70. 

February 1st. — No rain this morning, though the atmos- 
phere is damp and chilly to such an extent that our fire is kept 



DIARY. 57 

up, and with the party around, it reminds us of camp. We 
saw to-day Irish potatoes, grown here from seed brought from 
the States, which were of respectable size, but are said to be in- 
clined to be watery, though the sweet potato does well, according 

to report. By invitation we visited the field of Mr. Jack' 

where the sarsaparilla was seen growing, though none had up to 
this time been gathered. Though there was some prospect at 
an early hour this morning of a fair day, we have had repeated 
showers. Thermometer 6 a. m. 65 ; 9 a. m. 68 ; 12 m. 70 1-2 ; 3 
p, M. 71 1-2 ; 6 p. M. 71 1-2 ; 9 p. m. 70. 

February 2d — A courier was sent to the gentlemen who 
remained behind when we left Omoa, several days since ; he 
should be back to-day, and his failure to appear will necessitate 
a trip to that place, to carry out the object for which he was 
sent. To our great astonishment, Mr. D. S., and Dr. F., and 
two sons made their appearance this afternoon, having crossed 
the mountains, on mules. As one of the riders weighs two hun- 
dred and forty pounds, he can best tell how the trip was made, 
though the mule would undoubtedly have something to say if 
endowed with the power of speech, for his weight did not greatly 
exceed the burden he had to carry. These gentlemen left Omoa 
on last Wednesday, 29th ult., but were detained at the Eanche 
by bad weather till this morning. Thermometer 6 a. m. 68 1-2; 
9 A. M. 69 ; 12 M. 72 ; 3 p. m. 74 ; 6 p. m. 72 ; 9 p. m. 71. 

February Hd.— A Dorey said to be drawing two feet, arrived 
this morning at the village of Chemlicon, on the river of the 
same name, within seven miles of San Peiro, loaded with freight 
from Cienagueta. We were told nine days were required to 
make the trip; our efforts to obtain the particulars of the trip 
were, however, entirely unsuccessful. Colonel H., Dr. F., and 
Mr. D. S., accompanied by Dr. Scott, who kindly offered his 



58 A TRIP TO HONDUEAS. 

services as guide, made a trip to the mountains west of San 
Pedro, returning late in the evening drenched by rain which fell 
heavily during the day. 

This may not be the "rainy season," but it is certainly a 
season of rain. Thermometer 6 a. m. 68 1-2 ; 9 a. m. 72 ; 12 m. 
75 ; ap, M. 72 ; 6 p. m. 77 1-2. 

February 4th. — Our party explored the country to-day be" 
tween San Pedro and the mountains west, finding some excellent 
land between the Los Piedras^and Mermijo, though on the latter, 
and for some distance from its right bank it was found to be 
very sandy. This exploration was made on foot, with compass 
in hand, and though we had two ^natives to use the machete 
found the trip very fatiguing and will not soon be caught 
making a similar one. We returned to San Pedro at a late 
hour, but the bath and change of clothing could not be deferred, 
for we are well acquainted with the Agarrapata. This is a very 
good place to describe this pest. It is nothing more than the 
wood tick, called by some "seed-tick." They are so small as 
almost to require a magnifying glass to make them visible, and 
figures would fail to make their number known. Any one going 
to the woods is certain to return with thousands of them. We 
always adopted every precaution against them, such as tying 
the pants close around the ancle and brushing off repeatedly with 
a bunch of twigs. We have seen the most fearful efiects pro- 
duced by them where these precautions were neglected. It is 
said they are not troublesome for more than two months in the 
year, but we were unable to ascertain what two months. Per- 
haps the sixty days you are supposed to be absent from the place 
were referred to. Ther mometer 6 a. m. 68 ; 12 m. 75 ; 6 p. m. 78- 

February 5th. — Colonel H., Captain B. and myself endeav- 
ored to ascend the mountains to-day in order to get a view of 



DIAEY. . 69 

that portion of the valley of Sula, in which San Pedro is situa- 
ted ; our horses were used as far as possible, when we dis- 
mounted and began the ascent, walking till tired, resting and 
again pushing on, which was repeated, though we did not suc- 
ceed in reaching the top. An elevation was attained, however, 
that gave us a magnificent view of the valley below, seemingly 
stretching to the east for twenty miles and to the south to nearly 
double that distance. But for the rain and clouds we would 
have had a better view^ but we were amply repaid for our toil. 
Mr. D. S. had a chill to-day, which is pretty good evidence this 
latitude can produce the "Bilious Intermittent." Thermometer 
6 A. M. 74 ; 12 M. 78 ; 6 p. m. 76. 

February 6th. — We are still unable to exclaim, "Behold how 
brightly breaks the morn," for rain is again falling, and the 
heavens are entirely overcast. The rain continued during the 
day with a short intermission at noon. Thermometer 6 a. m. 74; 
12 M. 82 ; 6 r. m, 78. 

February 7th. — A miserable day was this to the writer, as 
the "Bilious Intermittant" culminated and he shivered. Per- 
haps he did not wish he was home ! His bed was a blanket 
spread on not a large quantity of shavings, which had a dirt 
floor foundation. Why did'nt he go to the Hotel ? Hotel ! Let 
us drop this subject. Mr. D. S. is now quite well, but when 
sick it required the united efforts of two individuals for forty- 
eight hours to secure a hide bottomed bedstead, for which it was 
agreed seventy-five cents per month should be paid. Ther- 
mometer 6 A. M. 69. 

February 8th. — Rain again to-day. Having heard of several 
persons being down with chills, we arefnaturally led to inquire 
into the cause. Is it the rain, change of weather, heat, Migue, 
or is it the result of malarious influences ? Being unable to saVr 



60 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

we cau only testify to the complaint being, if not the most 
dangerous, the most disagreeable disease known to the human 
family, and persons here not unfrequently have them of the quo- 
tidian type for a week at a time. All emigrants are requested 
by Gov. Eeynand to meet at the Cavildo (Court-house) to- 
morrow morning, to hear read a translation of the concessions 
made by the Puebla (town) of San Pedro Sula, for their benefit. 
Information has reached here of the arrival of sixty-four persons 
at Omoa, destined for this place, and quite a large number being 
at Belize, also coming here. 

February, 9th. — Notwithstanding we should look for a 
chill to-day, visited the Cavildo, remaining but a short time, as 
-we have not only heard the concessions read, but have a copy in 
the original, in our possession. 

February 10th. — Thermometer 6 a. m. 67 1-2 deg. 12 m. 
821-2 deg. 6 p. m. 80 deg. 

February 11th.— Thermometer 6 a. m. 6T 1-2 deg. 12 m. 83 
deg. 6 p. M. 77 1-2 deg. 

February 12th. — Having kept quiet during the past two 
days, and no repetition of our chill, feel pretty safe for the pres- 
ent. All complained of having slept cold last night notwith- 
standing blankets and closed doors. Information was received 
this morning of Mr. Peak and Dr. Frierson, who have arrived 
at Omoa with the baggage and supplies of the party, will 
come forward via the Chemlicon and Tequisiesta as soon as they 
can make arrangements for so doing. It is their intention to 
bring the freight to a point within fourteen miles of San Pedro, 
from which it will be brought here by wagon, there being two 
of those very convenient vehicles for the conveyance of goods at 
this place, and plenty of oxen. Thermometer 6 a. m. 64 1-2 ; 12 
M. 79 ; 6 p, M. 70. 



DIARY. 61' 

February 13th. — To-day information was received that Mr. 
P. and Dr. F., left Omoa several days since and ascended the 
Chemlicon to the Taquisiesta, when, in consequence of low 
water and obstructions in the river, they returned to the bar at 
the mouth ol the Chemlicon, there to remain until instructions 
should be received from here. All were much disappointed at 
this delay, as they have been without their Sunday clothes for 
nearly six weeks. Thermometer 6 a. m. 74 ; 12 m. 80 1-2 ; 6 
p. M. 76. 

F EBRUARY 14th. — It was decided this morning that Captain 
Buckner and myself should take a Dorey and men at the ford of 
the Chemlicon, seven miles south-east of here and proceed to the 
bar of the river and assist the gentlemen in charge of the baggage, 
they having had a serious time of it since leaving Omoa. Our 
preparations were hastily made, and cousisted of blanket, bar, 
mackintosh, india-rubber coat and jerked beef ; our dependence 
for bread being the plantain, a quantity of which we intended 
taking with us from the crossing, and to replenish our stock as 
needed at the various plantations we expected to pass. The 
Captain and myself left San Pedro at 10 a. m., and at 11.30 
reached the village of Chemlicon, and presented the letter kindly 
furnished by Gov. Reynaud, and which expressed the desire 
that we should be furnished with two men and a Dorey for the 
trip. Our main dependence was a man named John, who it 
was ascertained after considerable delay, was in San Pedro, con- 
sequently we must await his return. On our way back to re- 
cross the river we visited a hot sulphur spring, not , more than 
thirty yards from the river's bank, the temperature of which we 
could not ascertain, having left our thermometer at San Pedro, 
but it was evidently very high, steam being distinctly visible 
even at noon-day as the water bubbled up. We will endeavor to 



62 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

visit this spot again, and get a bottle of water for analysis. 
When we r-Bcrossed the river, John was on hand, but of course 
could not think of making a start till morning, this being the 
natives' peculiar habit in all such cases, and having sent our 
horses back, will remain here till morning, at which time there is 
fair prospect of our getting an early start. Thermometer 6 a. m. 
73 ; 12 M. 76 ; 6 p. m. 78. 

February 15 — At 6.30 we were off, and although we expected 
to have John only, or two men at most, find a boy in the boat 
whose duty will be to use a pole. At 7.40 a point was passed 
known to the natives as Juarlomo, though nothing was in sight 
save a girl washing clothes ; and at 8.15 an island, and at 8.30 an- 
other neither of which contained more than three or four acres ; 
and at 8.45 another, about 10 acres in extent, the growth on which 
is principally willow. The mouth of the Tacomiche was pased at 
11, and the Cow pen reached at 11.30, (This point is known 
as the Cow pen, because it was used in years past as 
a place for assembling cattle for the use of Mahogany cutters.) 
Nearly opposite this place one of the boatmen owns a plantation 
and the boat was stopped there in order that a supply of plan- 
tains might be laid in for the voyage. The Cow pen is situated 
at the base of quite a large hill, and the bank is from eight to 
ten feet high. We pushed out at 12 m., and at 2 passed a 
piece of ground on our right that had the appearance of an im- 
mense clearing, covered with high grass, and hardly a tree on it, 
and appeared to contain several hundred acres. The same char- 
acter of country was seen a few miles below, but the patches did 
not seem so extensive. John informed us that though this ground 
is covered with grass, and peat, it is not swampy. Want of 
time prevented our making such an examination as we desired, but 
at 2.45 we went ashore to examine, bv climbing a tree, this peculiar 



i 



DIARY. 63 

and not uninteresting country, and to ascertain to what extent a 
kind of willow existed that was occasionally seen. Over thousands 
of acres the grass extends with -here and there an isolated willow^ 
the bank at the waters edge being four feet high. Was this dis- 
trict of country cleared' by man ; and if so, why is it not now 
made to produce something for his support ? For several 
miles we passed through country that presented much the same 
appearance, the grass being on either shore — the bank three feet 
high and river fifty yards wide. At 3 p. m. we left the main 
river and entered a -'cut off" at our right. (This cut off was 
made by a raft in the river a mile or two below, which entirely 
prevents navigation by the main stream.) we passed over a foot 
fall in entering the "cut off" which at this place is ten yards wide 
eight feet deep, and has a current of about seven miles an hoar. 
The utmost skill was necessary on the part of the boatmen to 
avoid running into the bank and against fallen trees, or sunken 
logs, and to prevent our being dragged into the water by over- 
hanging limbs. At 3 p. m., a piece of low marshy ground wa^ 
reached, and an occasional Mangrove seen — depth of water four 
feet. As good camping ground is not easily found, availed our- 
selves of the first that offered and at 5 stopped for the night. 
Thermometer, 6 a. m. 71 : 12 m. 72 : 6 p. m. 73. 

February 16th. — Left camp this morning at 6.30. The 
stream here is about twenty yards wide, but as we advanced, 
would at times become narrow, and in the course of the morn- 
ing we passed over portions not more than four yards wide, and 
over several miles that did not exceed six in width, and a cur_ 
rent varying from five to seven miles an hour. During the 
time we have been in this stream, no paddling has been neces- 
sary except for the purpose of avoiding obstructions. At 9 we 
made our exit from this "cut off"" and again entered the main 



64 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

river, where but little current was found. Width of river fifty 
yards and bank twelve to fifteen feet high for a short distance, 
when it falls to six and eight feet. For several miles we passed 
through country similar to that seen in the cut off, and covered 
with high grass and willow, and being miles in extent from the 
river as well as along its banks. At 1.30 we stopped at a plan- 
tation, cut some sugar cane — picked up some lemons and again 
moved on. (When the word plantation is used, do not think it 
refers to thousands of acres, as they vary in size from one to ten 
acres.) Distant mountains have been visible on our left during 
the entire day, but at this place they come to the water's edge. 
While passing through the cut off we saw thousands of Iguanas, 
and many birds of all kinds known to this section, except ducks 
of which but few were seen ; and alligators constantly plunging 
into the water or swimming along ihe bank. 

At 5 o'clock, our boatmen beginning to talk about camp, a 
promise of tobacco if we reached the bar that evening induced 
them to keep the paddles iu motion, and our trip ended precisely 
at 6 o'clock. Having made the trip in 26 1-2 hours running time. 
We left San Pedro in the rain — slept in the rain last night — sat 
in the rain to day from time of leaving camp to 2 p. m., and we 
are cold and disagreeable in the extreme. The fires that were 
visible as we approached the bar had a very comfortable appear- 
ance, and the chilly wind blowing from .the. sea caused us to seek 
their warmth at a double quick. We found a norther prevailing 
at the time of reaching the bar, and a very heavy sea running and 
breaking on the beach with tremendous force, which renders it 
impossible for boats to cross the bar and to go to Cienagueta. 
In crossing the bar one of the boats containing baggage was 
swamped, wetting all it contained, and ruining many articles. A 
courier left San Pedro on the morning of the i4th for this place, 



DIARY. 65 

but has not yet arrived, though he expected to come through in 
one day. He is doubtless at Oienagueta, awaiting a change 
in the weather, which will probably not occur for several days. 
Thermometer, 6 a. m. 68 : 12 a. m. 72 1-2 : 6 p. m. 79. 

February 17th. — Rain again this morning — wind continuing, 
and sea as rough as yesterday. All seem to be in doubt as 
to the best course to pursue, and find it difficult to decide 
whether it would be best to try the river as far as the " Cow 
Pen," (beyond which there are five shoals with only one foot 
water on them) or to return to Cienaqueta and try the moun- 
tains. By 9 A. M. the wind changed to the north-west, with an 
occasional shower, and the sun showing himself at noon, 
all hands engaged in drying wet clothing and other efi'ects, 
which had been nearly completed on the previous day by 
Messrs. P. and F. It having been decided to try the river, pre- 
paration was at once commenced for the trip ; two dories were 
engaged for the purpose, one of which when loaded will draw 
twenty inches and the other sixteen. This movement will be 
carried out unless information is received from San Pedro to 
stop it. Nothing heard of the courier. Thermometer 6 a.m., 
68; 12 m., 71; 6 p. m., 70. 

February 18th. — Rain again this morning, with heavy clouds . 
at the north and west which present an angry appearance. Our 
blankets were wet again last night by the rain beating through 
our Cahoon shelters. After considerable exertion and great 
waste of patience we succeeded in making a fire, which we find 
as necessary for warmth as for culinary purposes, and perhaps 
more so, as the stock of provisions is not in great variety and 
the services of a Soyer is not needed in the kitchen. At 9.30 
wind changed to the south, with rain falling heavily, and but 
little prospect of abatement. The natives cooked a Baboon to- 



66 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

day, but we know uothing of its flavor. We have eaten Ooncb, 
Iguana, and other things that did not present a very inviting 
appearance, but no Baboon. A.t 1 p.m. wind changed to the 
west — the rain ceased, and we again made a fire and dried, or 
attempted to dry what had again received a wetting. At night 
the clouds disappeared, as usual. The sea continues very rough, 
and the roaring of the surf as it lashes the beach might be 
heard for several miles. Thermometer 6 a. m., 67 ; 12 m., 69 : 6 
p. M., 69. 

February 19th. — To our great joy the sun rose clear this 
morning, and we feel anxious to make a start, but must wait for 
men from Cienagueta. It is always delay with these people, 
who have no idea of the value of time, except- as a means of 
measuring distance from one point to another. The sea being 
smoother this morning, a boat started for Omoa for provision 
for the men in charge of the effects of passengers who 
came by the last trip of the Steamer. Their effects are in bad 
order, having been wet for several days. Our individual bag- 
gage was returned from this place to Omoa, by the boat, as we 
expect to leave San Pedro immediately on our arrival there, for 
the United States. The courier that left San Pedro on the 
morning of the 14th reached here at 10.30 a. m., having been 
detained at Cienagueta by bad weather, as we expected. The 
men expected from Cienagueta arrived in time to load the boats 
and be off by 1.45, p. m. They are to receive for transporting 
three thousand pounds of freight from here to the " Cow Pen," 
a distance of sixty-seven miles, forty-three dollars, payment to 
be made in currency, which is not greenbacks. The river was 
ascended for about eight miles, and camp pitched for the night. 
Thermometer 6 a. m., 65 ; 12 m., 73 ; 6 p.m., 71. 

February 20th. — At 6 this morning we were again on the 



DIARY. 6T 

way, which is an early start for these people, though we should 
have been ofiF an hour or more earlier. The bank at this place 
is three feet high, with plenty of Cahoon, and soil exceedingly 
rich. At 7 the heavens were overcast with "Mackerel Sky" 
which is a very good sign of rain, and the growling of a Baboon 
which was heard before we left camp, was pronounced by one of 
the boatmen a certain indication of " falling weather." At 
7.55 a point was passed where a raft will soon be formed, as the 
passage is only ten yards, while the stream is seventy-five yards 
in width ; fallen trees having nearly closed it. The large boat 
got across the first log that has retarded our progress, at 8.40, 
when a line was taken ashore and in a few minutes she was 
off. By 9 the sky was perfectly clear, which was cheering, as 
we have no tarpaulins with which to cover our effects, and if 
they again get wet it will be a more serious undertaking to dry 
them than was the case at the bar. At 11 the plantation waS 
reached where we obtained lemons on our down trip, and we 
again stopped to lay in a supply of plantains, lemons and sugar- 
cane. Our large boat stuck on a log at 3 p. m., but was not 
detained more than five minutes — the men taking water and 
dragging her off. In consequence of our being near the grassy 
region, and tlie terminus of Cahoon growth on this side of the 
" cut off," stopped at 4 and pitched camp, where it will be 
necessary to cook rations for two days, as we will soon be in a 
country where it will be almost impossible to find a camp. 
To-morrow we will be in the cut off, when the ivorh of the trip 
will begin. Thermometer 6 a. m., 60 ; 12 m., 76 ; 6 p. m., 74. 

Feburary 21st. — We are afloat this morning at 5.30, which 
is an improvement on yesterday's start. A heavy fog hangs 
over the river and it is quite cool. The cut off was entered at 9 
a. m., the boat occupied by Captain B. and myself going ahead, 



68 A TRIP TO HONDURAS, 

as we have the pilot. The boats are all provided with poles and 
paddles, the first being constantly used after we left the 
river. Our boat camped at 5.40, near a place where the current 
was very swift, which point was not reached by the other boats ; 
the large one camping three-fourths of a mile below us, and the 
cedar boat lower down. Thermometer 6 a. m., 63 ; 12 m.. 80 ; 
6 p. M., 78. 

Feburary 22d. — The large boat reached our camp at 6.40 
this morning, and stopped to prepare provision for the day. 
The cedar boat is not in sight, yet we are not anxious concern- 
ing it, as the men in charge have shown great energy, and one 
of them is the best boatman of the party. At 7.20, all hands 
having breakfasted we were again on the way. At 10.40 we 
reached our camp of the first night going down. Considerable 
detention was caused at 12 m. by the large boat getting across 
another log, which occurred again at 12.45. This log had to be 
cut in order to effect a passage. We are making very slow 
progress against current, logs, stumps, vines and the overhang- 
ing branches of trees. At 3.20, our pilot finding we were in a 
lagoon, and consequently out of our course, rt became necessary 
to turn back a mile in order to re-gain the right direction. We 
had hoped to be out of this flat country and once more among 
^Cahoon, before night, but now think there is little chance of our 
doing so. At 5 p. m. the large boat grounded, and was relieved 
by all hands 'taking to the water and manning the gunwales^ 
Camp was pitched this evening at 5.30, in a very disagreeable 
place, the cedar boat being a short distance ahead and the large 
boat about one hundred yards below us. Thermometer 6 a. m., 
63 ; 12 M., 79^ ; 6 p. m. 76. 

February 23d. — 6 o'clock found us on the way this morning, 
and we think from our locality we are about two miles from the 



DIARY. 69 

main stream. A t 6.15 the big boat was stopped by a log which 
it was found nee cssary to cut under water, and was again halted 
by a similar cause at 6.4.5, in a very rapid current. At 7.20 we 
reached a point where the river is almost entirely closed by a 
large tree lying across it, the only passage being a circular one 
worn by the current around the roots, which the large boat was 
exactly large enough to pass. At 8.05 all three boats were at 
the mouth of the cut-off, and in half an hour entered the Cham- 
licon, over a very rough place, tied up to rest for a few min- 
utes, and again moved on. While our boat was being quietly 
poled along, at 10.50, the boy leaped into the water, and after 
a momentary scuffle, rose to the surface with a turtle weighing 
about eight pounds. We could see no indication of anything of 
the kind, and the water was not clear enough for the bottom to 
be seen. This beats any fishing wo have seen, and proves a de- 
cided independence of hook and line. Our boat reached the 
Cow-pen at 4 p. m., the large boat at 5, but the cedar boat did not 
come up to-night. Thermom., 6 a. m., 63 ; 12 m. 79 ; 6 p.m. 76. 
February 24th. — Captain Buckner and myself left Camp 
this morning for San Pedro, at 6.30. A note was discovered 
here last evening written by Col. H., who was here on Satur- 
day (22d) , which states the distance to San Pedro to be twelve 
miles. For several miles after leaving the Cow-pen our route 
lay over a rolling country ; after which we came to a piece of 
prairie land with here and there a clump of small live oaks. This 
piece seemed to contain about two hundred acres, and is cov- 
ered with coarse grass from two to three feet high. This being 
a high, dry, and rolling piece of ground, we asked oursclf the 
question, was this ever in cultivation ? This trip will long be 
remembered by Captain B. and myself, as we left camp with 
baggage enough for a pack-mule of small dimensions, and though 



70 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

we slung it to a pole, and tried the shoulders, and this hand and 
that, keeping step with military precision, we failed to lessen its 
specific gravity. En route, the Blanco and Tacomiche were 
waded, the first two feet, and the second one foot deep, and we 
reached San Pedro at a late hour in the afternoon, where termi- 
nated one of the most fatiguing trips in which it was ever our 
misfortune to engage. Distance from S. Pedro to Cow-pen, thir. 
teen miles, and from Cow-pen to bar, sixty-seven : total distance 
eighty miles. We will have occasion to refer to the river again. 
Thermometer, 6 a. m., 66 ; 12 m. 82 ; 6 p. m. 78. 

February 25th. — A party is on the road between San Pedro 
and the Cow-pen, cutting the way wide enough for wagons, 
which is necessary to be done in a few places. Col. H. is with 
them to point out where certain advantageous changes may be 
made, as he examined the road a few days since. Thermometer, 
6 a. m. 70 ; 12 m. 82 ; 6 p. m. 72. 

February 26th. — As we expected, the man engaged yester- 
day to go to the Cow-pen for our baggage did not get ofi" till 
this morning. Extra payment induced an earlier start than they 
are in the habit of making,(and exacted the promise to be back 
this evening. He may arrive before morning and enable us to 
get off" as we desire — but, patience! " We will see what we will 
see." A native was found last evening secreted in the house of 
an immigrant, and was tried, sentenced and punished by 12 M. 
to-day — receiving one hundred strokes with stout tamarind 
switches ; in addition to which he will be required to work for 
the public a given length of time. Mardi Gras has been in 
operation here for the past two weeks, and on Monday last the 
Trudor sports should have begun, wliich are carried to a con- 
siderable extent in Brazil by throwing flour on each other, and 
by throwing against the person their waxen bottles filled with 



DIARY. 71 

scented water. We saw no flour used in that or in any other 
manner, but a few persons used a small compressible metal bot- 
tle, throwing the water by squeezing the bottle. The individual 
who went for our baggage, returned this evening, which is won- 
derful indeed ; but the person engaged to carry it to Omoa says 
he cannot start till day after to-morrow. We will endeavor to 
remove every obstacle to his going. Thermometer 6 a. m. 69 ; 
12 M. 82; 6 p.m. 70. 

February 27th. — Our baggage is ready, but not until the 
sun was an hour high did the party engaged to carry it make 
his appearance. He came to get money with which to purchase 
rations, Mr. D. S. having promised to feed him on the road, and 
also raised the price he at first charged, from two dollars to two 
dollars and fifty cents. Twenty-five cents being given him to 
procure rations, the work of tying on two trunks was commenced, 
three persons being engaged in it, which was completed to their 
satisfaction in half an hour. Eopes always have to be furnished 
for this purpose by the owner of baggage. Mr. Lucius Middle- 
brook and Mr. D. S. made a start at 8.10, and the baggage 
man at 8.30 ; we leaving San Pedro at 9.45, and overtaking 
the other gentlemen before they reached the mountain, the ascent 
of which was begun at 2.25 and terminated at Rancho Grande, 
at its foot, without accident, at 5.15 p. m. 

The following being posted at Eancho (Jrande, is copied for 
the benefit of " all whom it may concern." 

For ranging beast per night 6i cts , 

For use of bed with net (no bedding is furnished, C. S.) . . 50 

" " without net 25 

One meal at regular meal hours 37^^ 

After 7 at night, each meal, each person .50 

One cup of coffee, with biscuit 12^ 



!72 A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

1'hose who do not wish to occupy beds, may have the free use 
Df the Hall. 

(Signed) KEGINO PREO, Proprietor. 

February 28. — At 6 this morning, we again mounted our 
mules and moved in the direction of the coast, congratulating our- 
selves on the fact of this being the last day over this miserable 
road. The day proved cloudy and without rain, which made 
the trip much more pleasant than would have been the case un- 
der a clear sky. We reached Omoa at 2.10, and the Judge's 
dinner hour being 4 p. m. we repaired to the Omoa river to 
exterminate the last agarrapata. 

February 29th. — We engaged passage, and embarked on 
schooner Omoa, bound for Belize, at 1.15. During the afternoon 
and that night hardly a breath of air stirred, and we could not 
tell whether we were moving, Mr. D. S. has another chill, and 
we can only hope he will be as fortunate as on a former occasion, 
and have but one. 

March 1st. — No breeze to-day except of the most gentle 
character, and we are yet a long distance from our destination. 
The sun again disappeared beneath the horizon without our see- 
ing Belize, though the trip is often made in twelve honrs. 

Mar(.!h 2d. — Belize is in sight this morning, and we came to 
anchor at 12.30. A customhouse officer came aboard imme- 
diately, and permitted us to go ashore at once. We " put up '" 
at Brewer's Hotel, Captain T. C. Brewer, proprietor. It affordj; 
us pleasure, to be able to. say the captain is an ex Confed. ani3 a 
gentleman, and that you will always find the Table d'Hote sup- 
plied with the best the market affords, and at reasonable rates. 
The sleeping apartments are neat, airy and comfortable. Patron- 
ize him if you visit Belize, aud you will not go away dissatis- 
fied. 



DIARY. 73; 

March 3^. — Jas. M. rPutuaai Esq.^ agent fop M«ssrs. Young, 
Toledo & Go., extended an invitation ta us to acopin|vany him 
to the Moho river, or rai|her the " Gattle Landing," two miles 
north, of the mouth of that river, for which place he expects to 
start this evening with the steamer Enterpr^iae, belonging to the 
firin njteiationed, ai;»d will carry down a numher of persons who 
aijrive4 op th.e last steamier froiii IS ewOrleaina. We made our 
pr^ara^tion for going, but the vessel did. ^9k njake her appear- 
ance, during the day . 

IVlARCEt: 4th,.— 1<] is ascertained that the. Enterprise is agrouod 
at the." Haul Over," whiph is a water connection between the 
B^lj^se river . and' tlje Bay. The steamier had been in the river 
for some time undergoing repairs, an^^ couJd only enter the Bay 
by the route named, on account of a bridge spanning the river 
in town. Quite a number of gentlemen who were Avaiting here 
for her, are gone this morning to tender their services in getting 
her ojar. Thermom, 6 a. m. 79 ; 12 m. 83 ; 6 p. m. 79. 

March 5th. — The "Enterprise" succeeded in getting off the 
bar th^s morning and reached her anchorage in the harbor at 7.20 
A. M. The " Trade-wind " will sail on the 7th, and we have aban- 
doned the trip to the Moho, as it is two late for us to make it 
and return in time for the steamer, the distance being ninety 
miles. We paid our respects this morning to his Excellency, 
Gov. Longdon, and spent an hour both pleasantly and profitably 
with that gentleman. Having been informed of a grant made 
to an American Company, of an extensive piece of country 
lying between Monkey and Deep rivers, we made inquiry of his 
Excellency concerning it and found it was not as we had heard. 
The " Enterprise ' • sailed this evening at 6, with a large com- 
pany. Thermometer 6 a. m., 77 ; 12 m., 81 ; 6 p. m. 76. 

March 6th. — Several gentlemen on their Avay to the States 



7* ■ A TRIP TO HONDURAS. 

arrived" at Belize this raorDing from San Pedro. They iBforiri^ 
us that a party had visited the Ulaa river at its nearest point to 
San Pedro, eighteen miles, and that they reported six feet water 
to the bar of that stream. How they arrived at that conclusion 
we are unable to say, ats we Were not told they descended the 
j,iver. We remember distinctly that, before we descended the 
Chemlicotf it was reported to have two and a half feet at its 
lowest stage. Thermometer 6 a. m., 77 ; 12 m., 80 ; 6 p. m. 79.' 

March 7th. — The wind has been blowing briskly from the ' 
east for several days, and we anticipated rough weather on the 
trip, but having made every preparation for the voyage, hope to -' 
pass the time more comfortably than from New Orleans here. ' 
The " Trade-wind " weighed anchor at 12 m., and we are off for ' 
the land of Leafless trees. At 1.25, in consequence of roughness 
of the sea on the " outside " cast anchor and remained here till 
morning. Thermometer 6 a. m., 77 ; 12 m., 81 ; 6 p. m., 78. ■ 

March 8th. — Anchor was weighed this morning at 6, and " 
we are again on our way. In a few hours we were useless to 
ourselves, and of no service to any one, and might have been 
found occupying the upper berth in No. 9, which we kept not 
only to-day, but the next, and the next. 

March 11th. — We are able to be up to-day, but feel as ■ 
though we had passed through a severe attack of sickness. We 
think a roe herring would be good — none to be obtained — cran- 
berry jelly — none within reach. "Waiter, have you any mack- 
erel?" "I believe it is all gone, sir, but will see." "Mackerel, sir!" 
"Ah, thank you." Better mackerel we never ate, and a good 
breakfast was made though the quantity eaten was very small. 
Tried a cigar, but succeeded in making a very small quantity of 
ashes. Took a chew, nauseating weed ! how can any one use 
it? We retire to our room, lie down, and endeavor to decide 



which would be worse as a punishment for a person who is liable 
to sea-sickness — a compulsory sea faring life, the penitentiary^ 

or decapitation 

March 12th. — Crossed the bar at 9.30 a. m., and reached 
New Orleans at 10 p. m., remaining on board till morning. 

March 13th. — By 12.30 baggage was delivered, and we are 
busy getting ready for the Jackson cars, which are to leave at 4 
p. M. instead of 7, as was the case a short time since. We 
succeeded in making a start, and will reach " Old Warren," at 
10.30, on the morning of March 14th, 1868. 



BRITISH HONDURAS. 



It is singular, but true, that few persons who have not 
visited Belize, have any well defined or correct ideas of that 
place. Of all the passengers on the Tradewind when we went 
over, there being more than a hundred, only two or three 
person^, who " had visited the country, had any other idea of 
the place than that the houses were rudely constructed, and 
the principal portion of the population about as rude as the 
buildings. We confess our surprise was great, when first we 
caught sight of the town, at night, but greater was our 
surprise, when we viewed it in the morning, and found that it 
extended along the shore for a distance of more than a mile 
with well built houses and palm trees scattered here and there, 
waving their umbrella like tops to the breeze, and relieving the 
monotonous white of the buildings by their foliage, presenting a 
very beautiful an^ fairy -like scene. The town has a width of 
less than half a r^iile, with a Mangrove swanjp extending along 
its rear, ar)d is drained by the Belize River, which places the 
nor;the,rn e^d in an isla,nd m9,de by the water of the river passing 
through the *'haul over" six miles from town. There is a canal 
ruaaing the entire length ot the pla,ce, and in rear of it,; which is 
tweaty-fiye feet wide, piled on either side, and spanned by, several 
iron [bridges. The stf eets aj:e of good .width, without sidewalks, 
and are kept scrupulou^y clean. No matter how hard it may 
raijia or how. windy it may be, theve is no mud in the one case, nor 
dust in the other, as thesti^eetsaremade ofsa^^d f^^ sqpMgraveJ, 



78 BRITISH HONDURAS. 

and are so hard and smooth as to present the appearance of ce- 
ment or -concrete walks. 'I'he Customhouse is an excellent buil- 
ding, and has a beautiful wharf, close bj | the market house, 
though not large, is constructed of iron, and the bridge which 
spans the river is a very substantial structure, though built of 
wood. The houses are from one to three stories high, and are 
constructed of brick, frame, and a few of corrugated iron; and are 
covered principally with slate, tile and iron. Most persons do 
business on the lower floor and reside above, where may be found 
apartments as neatly constructed and as elegantly furnished as 
at any other place we can name. The merchants of Belize are 
able to drive their business, and not let their business drive 
thfem, for at 4 o'clock p. m. every store of any pretensions is 
cl6sed, with a promptness that caused us to ask if it was in ac- 
cordance with law, and were informed it was simply a custom. 
(Happy merchants, thought we, if you do not do business on 
twelve mouths' time. If you lived in the United States you 
would think slavery still in existence, as with us there is 
certainly no class of men who are worked harder than 
the merchants.) There are six churches ; two Episcopal, one 
Methodist, one Baptist, one Catholic and one Presbyterian. AH 
very neat and large for a place the size of Belize ; the Methodist 
bdng very handsome indeed. We will endeavor to give a short 
description of it. The corner stone was laid by Gov. Austin, 
November 3d, 1864. The building is constructed of brick, with 
slate roof, and covers a surface of about 50x100 feet, and has two 
floors, the lower one with ceiling about fifteen feet high, which 
is used i 6 a school-room, artd the upper for Divine service ; 
a stafr-case running from the outside of the building, being the 
mode of reaching it. The pews are of Mahogatty, and the pulpit 
a* Of the saiijie material ; large, and circular in form, with a hand-' 



BRITISH HONDURAS. t^ 

sonae lamp on either side of the cushion and two in rear. In rear 
of , the pulpit are three tablets, six feet high and three in width, 
those at the sides containing the Ten Commandments, and that in 
the centre the Apostles Creed. Gothic windows of green glass oc- 
cupy nearly the entire width of the build iug, at the end where the 
pulpit is situated, and on either side of the room double gothic 
windows of colored glass, with circular windows above them, 
extend from floor to ceiling, which is a gothic Yault, with a base 
one half the width of the building, and from which two arches 
gracefully curve to the walls. The ceiling is painted white, and 
is relieved by strips of mahogany, several inches wide, running 
from base to apex, at intervals of about three feet- Five chan- 
deliers with three lights each, are suspended from the roof, and 
eight lamps at the walls, four on either side. We found by 
calculation that the floor would hold four hundred and fifty-six 
persons, and the gallery one hundred and eight. We attended 
service here at night, two hundred or more of the colored popu- 
lation being present, and only three white 'persons, that we could 
See, and we never saw a more quiet or attentive congregation. 
The moment we appeared at the door, v/e were politely con- 
ducted to a seat, and every attention shown tliat cou'd anywhere 
be given. 

There is considerable business done at Belize, though we are 
inclined to think from the appearance of stocks in store that too 
heavy a preparation has been made for the immigrants' accom- 
modation. There are few roads around the town, and not many 
in. the country generally, transportation being carried on with 
boats and pack-mules. A. boat is almost as indispensible to an 
inhabitant of this place as a carriage or buggy is with us, and 
they seem to have exhausted their skill and ingenuity in their 
constructioajr— some of them beipgi vyeyy artistically and elegantly 



80 ■ BRITISH HONDURAS. 

made. There are several kinds of boats, the most important 
being the "Dorey" and "Pitpan." The first is shaped like a 
ship's boat, and sharp at both ends, and the second is very long 
for its width and is used for navigating shallow water. These 
boats are made of a single piece of wood, and arc what we 
would call '-canoes, or dpg-outs." 

Concerning the laws it is hardly necessary to say anything, as 
they arc English. Suffice it to say, that, here law prevails, and 
this is one of the most orderly communities we have ever visited. 

Those who have followed us this far will be able to form a 
pretty correct idea of the soil, and its location, and only a few 
words are necessary on this point. The idea prevails that there 
is very little thin laud, which is not the case, as we not unfre- 
quently found clay at a depth of eight inches, and much land 
containing too large a proportion of sand. The cahoon palm, 
which is received as a sure indication of rich land was found 
growing on soil both wet and dry, rich and poor. That there is 
high land in British Honduras cannot be questioned, but it is 
not on the coast, nor is it on the rivers within fifteen or twenty 
miles of the coast, anywhere south of Belize that was visited by 
us, except at 'All Pines' and 'Seven Hills,' and we were informed 
the best lands could be found in that part of the colony. We 
examined the lands on the rivers; and as far as examined, they 
are generally flat, and present every indication of being subject 
to overflow. We found high ground on the Middle River and 
Golden-stream, and have no doubt there is a ridge of land be- 
tween all these rivers that is above overflow, but what is its 



BRITISH HONDURAS. 'Si 

extent, and what is the character of the country between those 
points and the rivers, or the coastif 

Pt I -V 3=3 I^ S . 

The rivers of the colony examined by us are truly beautiful 
streams, almost entirely without obstructiotis, and generally very 
deep. The Golden-stream, Rio-Grande, and Moho might be 
navigated for twenty miles at least, by the Mississippi River 
steamer General Quitman, when once over the bar, and at high 
tide she would have no difficulty in passing that point. 

During our stay in British Honduras, we saw but two snakes 
one of which \va§ killed by Dr. F. on the Golden-stream, and the 
other we ^aw at All Pines ; the first being unknown to us, and 
the secbnd a gai'ter snake. Mosquitoes, sand flies and bottle 
flies, except when the sea breeze prevails are very numerous and 
annoying. The first is an old enemy, and the second not un- 
known in this country, but the third belongs to a difierent 
latitude — we will describe it. In size it is almost the same as the 
turkfey gnat, and punctures the flesh, usiJally without causing pain, 
, leaving as its mdrk a sniall red spot of blood drawn to the outer 
layer of the skin. For eighteen Or twerity-foiir hoiirs this does 
not annoy, but at about that time an ;,itching sierisation is pro- 
duced, arid you scratch continually, when the hands swell consid- 
erably, presenting a very unnatural appearance. We werie 
fortunately told to puncture those spots a? soon as discovered, 
press oilt the blood arid bathe with salt water, Which wias doiie, 
and no unpleasant results followed their bite. We have seen 
hundreds of these bites on the hands of a single individual. 
Ants are very numerous and destructive to gardens. House- 
flies, so familiar to us, are here almost unknown. 



iJP BRITISH HONDURAfe. 

The orauge, lemon, lime, plantain, banana^ guava, pine-apple, 
X3ocoa-nut, and we might add all the fruits ^f the tropics, in their 
season. 



Much the same as with us, and in addition the yam, yarapa, 
casava, coco or malanga, and others of less importance. The 
yam is very much like our sweet potato in appearance, and 
grows to a large size, frequently weighing ten or fifteen pounds ; 
and when boiled, very closely resembles the Irish potato. The 
yampa is also a root, but does not attain the size of the yam, 
and is in taste a medium between the Irish and sweet potato. 
The casava and malanga are also roots, the first of which grows 
to the weight of four or five pounds and has already been 
described, and the second to the size of our Irish potato, and is 
the nearest approach to that vegetable of all we have named. 

OEREA-LS. 

Corn is grown, and according to report, two crops are raised 
in one year. We were shown some of this grain at Seven Hills^ 
the ears being of medium size and full to the ends. It is very 
farinaceous and is early attacked by weevil, that in a short tinie 
leave nothing but husk. Many persons claimed that not only 
two crops a year can be raised, but sixty bushels an acre to the 
cropv We saw nothing that promised a larger return than 
fifteen bushels but we did not measure either land or corn. 

Of rice we saw some that was very fine. Two crops ia 
year are also claimed for tliis; We are satisfied this is a very 
fine tjountry for its production, and that the yield will be 
both large in quantity and Excellent in quality. • ^' 



BRITISH HONDURAS. 85' 

This tree, from the fruit of which the chocolate of commerce 
is paade, we did not' see growing in British Honduras, but heard 
of -one south of Belize, and of a patch of twejqty or more on the 
Belize River. Parties who have tried it say they did not succeed 
well with it. 

OOFFBE. 

Did not see a tree growing in the colony. A gentleman of 
my acquaintance said he did not believe there was a tree in 
British Honduras, but was told there was one at Corosal. We 
know of no reason why- both coffee and eaeao will not grow here 
equally as well as in Spanish Honduras, and believe if proper loca- 
tions are selected and tliei' necessary care and attention are bes!* 
towed they will succeed. 

Of horses, mules, cattle, hogs and sheep, there are very few in 
the country : Spanish Honduras and Guatemala being depend- 
ed on as the sources of supply. 

G{-OVEI?.Tsr3S^El>TT OEJFIOEI^S_ 

His Excellency, Lt. Gov. Jas. Robt. Longdon. Private 
Secretary, Fredk. Harcourt Hamblin. Col. Secry., Controller 
of Customs, and clerk to the Council, Lt. P. J. Hankin, R. N. 
Col. Secretary, Austin Wm. Cox. Col. Treasurer, Antonio 
Mathe. Attorney general, Joseph H. Phillips. Bishop, Bishop 
of Kingston. Chief Justice, Hon. R. J. Corner. Crown 
Surveyor, J. H. Faber. Immigration Agent, A. W. Cox, and 
many others ; the above being the most important. 

The Legislature is composed of the Lt. Governor^g and a 
Legislative Assembly of twenty-one members, viz,, eighteen 



8|^s- BRITISH HONDURAS. 

elective and three nonjiQated by the Grown, also an Executive 
Council o£ six mei]cil?ers. 

Executive Council, (styled honorable,) Officer Com. troops, 
Col. Secretary, Treasurer, Attorney-Greneral iJa: Officio : A. W. 
Cox, A. Math6, P. Toledo. 



Imports of the colony for 1866 £169,033 08 

Exports . . . . 277,155 16 

American Consul A. C. Prindle. 

vSpanish Honduras J. E. Mutrie. 

Census population of colony, April 7, 1861 25,635 

Present .. .. Belize about 6,000 

The population of the colony, including the towns, is almost 
entirely colored. 

On the efi'ects of agricultural immigrants there is no duty ; 
but such persons on their way to Spanish Honduras will be re- 
quired to pay " Trans-shipment dues," varying from twenty-five 
to fifty cents per package ; the latter to be paid for each barrel 
of flour and pork. 

Many being under the impression that " living " is cheaper 
at Belize than in the United States, the following from the 
" Belize Honduras Colonist " of February 29th, 1868, will 
enable tliem to form a better idea perhaps than they at pre- 
sent have of the subject. Gold or silver to be used in pay- 
ment. 



BRITISH HONDURAS. 85 

FINANCIAL AND COMMERCIAL 

Kate of Exchange of Bills on England is $500 per £100 
sterling. 

MARKET PRICES. 

Flour ^14 to 15 per bbl. 

Rice $p to 6 " 100 lbs. 

Corn $1 to 1.121- per bbl. 

Plantains 26^ to 75c. " 100. 

Yams $2.25 to 2.50 " 100. 

Beef. $18 to 25 per bbl. 

Butter 44 to 50c. " lb. 

Lard 14 to 16c. " " 

Fork, Prime $24 per bbl. 

Mess $24 to 25 per bbl. 

Fish.. '..... $6 to $7 " 100 lbs. 

Fowls. $4.50 to 6 " doz. 

Sugar, brown $7 to 7^ " 100 lbs. 

white $16 to 19 " " 

" loaf. $18 to 21 " '' 

Coffee 18 to 20 " " 

Tea $1.25 to 1.50 per lb. 

Tobacco, leaf 25 to 32 " 100. 

Cedar 25 to $40 " M. ft. 

Pitch Pine Lumber 35 to $40 '•' " 

White Pine. 40 to $45 " ''• 

Mahogany boards $80 " " 

'^Before taking up the subject of Spanish Honduras, it is a 
pleasure to add our testimony to the fact that his Excellency, 
Jas. Robt. Longdon, Governor of British Honduras is a gentle- 
man in every way qualified for the position he fills with so mucli 
8 



:86 BRITISH HONDUBAS. 

satisfaction to tlie people of the colony, and that he possesses the 
rare combination of an excellent administrative and executive 
officer, the result of large experience and close observation, 
which, together with a finished education, polished manner, and 
•earaest desire to promote the welfare of those under him, has 
^greatly endeared him to all. 

We found him also to be eminently practical in his 
ideas, and trust if this should meet his eye, that he will ex- 
ease ©ur using an expression made use of by him, and which we 
will not soon forget, " that he did not so much desire to hear 
<w-liat persons could do, as what they had accomplished " in their 
planting operations. 



SPANISH HONDURAS, 



THE REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS 



Perhaps Spanish Honduras, particularly San Pedro antS 
vicinity, received attention from our countrymen at as ear- 
ly a day as British Honduras. Major Green Malcolm^ of 
Kentucky, left Atlanta, Georgia, in April 1867, for San Pe- 
dro, via Omoa, with seventy souls. Soon after their arrival 
at San Pedro it was decided to place the government of 
their local interests under the control of a council, in order 
to avoid the necessity of assembling the entire colony whe» 
any question of interest or expediency should arise likely to- 
effect their welfare, and at a public meeting they elected as their- 
council the following gentlemen : Maj. Malcolm as their pre- 
siding officer. 

G. Malcolm, L. G. Pirkle, 

. H. H. Briers, Geo. W. AValters, 

J. H. Wade, P. Goldsmith, Secy. 

:iVEE3DI]Sr.A.. 

The site for a town to be called Medina, in honor of the Pre- 
sident of the Republic, was selected soon after the arrival of" 
Major Malcolm, but up to the time of our leaving San Pedro it 
did not contain a finished house, and only three or four were m- 



88 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

course of coDstruction. The site selected adjoins the corporation 
of San Pedro. In May, 1867, Major Malcolm was made Ins- 
pector of Foreign Immigration, the following being a copy of 
his commission from the Government. 

(Copia) CoMAYAGUA, Mayo 8, 1867. 

Senor Green Malcolm. 

El Gobieruo en atencion a que Y. ha sido admitido ya coma 
ciudadano de esta Republica, y teniendo en consideracion sus 
aptitudes y buenos deseos por la prosperidad del pais, ha tenido 
a bieri nombrarle por acuerdo de hoy Inspector de la Inrai- 
gracion estrangera en la costa e interior del departamento de 
Santa Barbara, debiendo Y. dar cuenta al Gobierno de las 
disposiciones que adopte afin de cumplir con el encargo que se 
le confiere, para allanar las dificultades que se presenten y dis- 
poner todo lo que sea couveniente en el particular. 

Esperando que Y. se servira aceptar este nombramiento, teugo 
el placer de suscribirme de T. muy atento servidor. 

PONCIANO LEIYA. 

Hay un sello del Ministerio de Relaciones Interiores y Gober- 
nacion . 

Es conforme al original. 

San Pedro, Febrero 2, 1868. 
J. REYNAUD. 



i 



SPANISH HONDURAS. 89 



(TRANSLATION.) 

{Copy.) CoMAYAGUA, May 8, 1867. 

Mr. Green Malcolm, 

Sir: 

The government, considering that you have already been ad- 
mitted as a citizen of this Kepublic, and satisfied of your abilities 
and good wishes for the prosperity of the country, has deemed it 
expedient to nominate you by a resolution passed this day, In- 
spector of Foreign Imniigration for the coast and the interior of 
the Department of Santa Barbara, making it your duty to report 
to the Grovernment, whatever measures you may adopt, in your 
official capacity, to remove all difficulties that may arise and to 
promote the views of Government on the subject of immigration. 

Hoping that you will accept this nomination, I have the 
pleasure to subscribe myself yours respectfully, 

PONCIANO LEEVA. 

Given under the seal of the Ministry of Interior Relations and 
Government. 



A true copy, 

San Pedro, February 2, 1868. 
J. REYNAUD. 



^1 SPANISH HOXDURAS. 

On the third of May, 1867, the communication below was 
forwarded to the authorities. 
{Copy.) 

To his Excellency the President and Executive officers of the 
Republic of Honduras ; 

Gentlemen ; 

The undersigned respectfully submits to your consideration, 
that on the 10th of April, after a passage of ten days, I arrived 
in the city of Omoa with seventy souls, emigrants to your beau- 
tiful land. These persons consist of men, women and children, 
who are what might be termed the forerunners of perhaps thou- 
rsaads of the best citizens of the Southern States, of the United 
States- We wish to make this our home. To find in this that 
which we have lost in our own native land, liberty. To make 
this what our country was before it was destroyed by our 
•eaemies. Our desire is to become citizens of the Republic at 
■oaee, to be a part of your people, Jto claim your protection, to 
defend you with our lives from foreign invasion, and to do our 
whole duty to our adopted country. In coming among you we 
would state that on account of our recent great misfortunes, 
anauy of us are greatly impoverished, and without going into 
further preliminary remarks, would give this as our reason for 
asking you to grant the following privileges and donations. 

1st. A grant of land as indicated in the accompanying map. 

2d. A free port at Port Acabellos for three years, for the 
-exclusive benefit of the colony. 

3d. The exclusive navigation of the rivers Chamilicon, Ulua 
and their tributries for ten years. 

4th- The right to build roads through public or private lands, 
for the benefit of the Colony and Government. 



SPANISH HONDUEAS. 91 

5th. The right to construct aqueducts and bring water 
through our and adjacent lands. 

6th. The exemption from taxation for two years from the day 
of arrival. 

7th. The privilege of enacting our own municipal regulations 
ill conformity with the laws of the Republic. 

8th. 'J.lie privilege of organizing our city adjacent to San 
Pedro, separately from that town and naming it the city of 
Medina. 

9th. The exclusive privilege of establishing manufactories for 
the manufacture of woolen and cotton goods in the Republic for 
ten years. 

10th. The exclusive privilege of introducing for five years, 
wagons, buggies and carriages, the common sense sewing ma- 
chine, washing machines of all descriptions with machines for 
making tin- ware. 

11th. The privilege of distilling liquors from the productions 
of our farms. The privilege of planting and harvesting all seeds 
in our colony, and introducting the still known as the "Log still." 

12th. The privilege of introducing for eight years the circular 
saw mill run by steam or water, planing machines and shingle 
machines. Tae above we acknowledge appears liberal and we 
would not have you think us asking too much, for we by these 
privileges and grants, desire and are determined as far as pos- 
sible to use them to the improvement, development and welfare 
of the country as well as ourselves. 

With the highest consideration, 

I am gentlemen, your obedient servant. 

(Signed.) G. MALCOLM. 

Comayagua, Honduras, C. A., May 3, 1867. 



92 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

'J^o which the followhig answer was returned. 
[Copia.) 

El Presiclente eu quien reside el Supremo Poder Ejecutivo de 
la Republica de Honduras, por cuauto : Haberse presentado el 
Senor Green Malcolm natural de los E. E. U. U., por 
si y a nombre . de varias familias sus connacionales, 
solicitando establecerse en el territorio de la Republica bajo 
el gose de los ciudadanos Hondurenos j con sujeccion a las leyes 
vigentes y que eu lo succesivo se emitan en el pais, para cuyo 
intento piden varios privilegios y conseciones. 

CoNsiDERANDO — Que la Republica necesita de inmigrantea 
industriosos para desarrollar los elemcntos naturales de riquezas 
que abundan, y que el Decreto LeTislativo de 23 de Febrero del 
aiio pasado faculta al Gobierno para protejer esta clase de 
empresas. Por tanlo ; ha venido en hacer y decretar las conse- 
ciones : 

la. Se permite a los inmigrantes honrados y laboriosos pro- 
cedentes de los E. E. U. U. del Sur de la America del 
Xortc que han llegado y que arriben en lo succesivo al 
pais, el establecimiento en el Distrito de San Pedro, Departa- 
mento de Santa Barbara, de una poblacion, que llevara el litulo 
^de ciudad de Medina. 

•2a. A mas del uso comun que la Municipalidad de San Pedro 
ha concodido a dichos inmigrantes en sus ejidos bajo las condi- 
ciones asignadas en una acta que ha presentado en copia el 
Senor Malcolm, y que el Gobierno ha aprobado, se les conceden 
los terrenos nacionales contiguos a los ejidos de San Pedro asi al 
Sur de dicha poblacion y contenidos dentro de cstos limites 
principales : El Chamalecon, la Cima del Cerro nombrado la 
Cumbre y la base de las montanas del Sur Oeste del mismo 



SPANISH HONDURAS. 93 

pueblo : debiendo oportiinaraente practicarse una delineacion 
adecuada. 

3a. EI Puerto Cortes sera franco por tres aiios para que los 
pobladorcs de la ciudad de Medina introdasean todo lo que les 
sea necessario para su consumo y establecimiento de casas, 
fabricas, maquinas, etc. 

4a. La navegacion por medio de vapor o fuerza de caballos, 
de los rios de Ohamalecon, Ulua y sus tributarios sera esclusiva 
para los mismos iumigrantes por el termino de ocbo anos. 

5a. Se les concede tambien los siguientes prlvilegios esclusi- 
vos : lo. Por diez anos el establecimiento de maquinas para manu- 
facturar lana, algodon, u otras materias fibrosas, y para refinar 
azucar, 2o. Por ocho anos el de maquina circular movida por 
agua o vapor para acerrar madera y la de acepillar y hacer teja- 
mani. So. La iutroduccion por cinco aaos de carros, calezas, 
carruages, la maquina de cocer conocida con el nombre de 
" Common Sense Sewing Machine," la de hacer bajilla de lata, y 
el alambique conocido con el nombre de '* log still" para la 
destilacion y venta de licores, la haran de conformidad con los 
reglamentos de este ramo. 

6a. Tendran el derecho de construir caminos que pasen por 
terrenes nacionales o de propriedad particular para boneficios de 
ellos mismos y del Gobierno y el de hacer acueductos o traer 
aguas para regar sus terrenes. 

7a. Los pobladores de la ciudad de Medina estaran exceiitos 
del servicio mllitar y de contribuciones forsosas por el termino 
de dos anos conIaJos desde su arribo al pais. 

8a. Tendran el derecho de elejirpara su Gobierno local y con 
arreglo a lasleycs d3 la Republica un cuerpo municipal, pudiendo 
entre tanto haya un numero de quinientas almas, ser rejidos por 
un Gobernador y un Juez de Paz que elegiran de entre ellos 



94 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

mismos, estando subordinados el primero al Gobernador de Santa 
Barbara y el segundo al Juez de Primera Instancia de Oraoa. 

9a. Tendra el derecho de hacer sus reglamentos municipales o 
bandos para el Gobierno Interior de la poblacion de conforraidad 
con las leyes de la Republica y soraetiendolos a la aprobacion 
del CoDgreso, o del Supremo Poder Ejecutivo. 

10a. Los articulos que dichos pobladores embarquen en los 
puertos de la Republica, seran libres de todo derecho de expor- 
tacion por el termino de ocho anos. Estas concessiones en nada 
perjudicaran a . la empresa del Ferro-carril Inter-Oceanico, 
proyectado, pues los privilegios permitidos o que se permitan 
sobre este particular seran una excepcion de estas coiir^essiones. 

Sera entendido, que los privilegios antes referidos relativos al 
establecimiento de maquinas, se extenderan solamente en los de- 
partamentos de Santa Barbara, Gracias y Comayagua, excepto 
el de la maquina de hacer telas que sera extensivo a toda la Re- 
publica. 

Si dentro de tres afios no hubiese en la ciudad que va a fun- 
darse un nuniero de quinientas almas por lo raenos, los privile- 
gios concedidos en este Decreto quedaran sin efecto : pero en 
este caso los inmigrantes que ya esten establecidos disfrutaran 
de la propriedadde la parte que tengan cultivados de los terrenes 
concedidos. Escritas en Comayagua en la casa de Gobierno a 
ocho de Mayo de mil ochosientos sesenta-y-siete. 

J. LOPEZ, 
PONSEANO LEIVA. 

Hay un sello. 
Es conforme con su original. 

Sax Pedro, Enero 29, 1868. 
J. REYXAUD. 



spanish honduras. 95 

(translation.) 

The President, in whom resides the supreme executive 
power of the Kepublie of Honduras. 

Whereas, Mr. Green Malcolm, a native of the United States, 
for himself and in behalf of various families of his nationality has 
presented a petition, soliciting permission to settle in the ter- 
ritory of the Republic, with the privileges of citizens of Hon- 
duras, and subjecting themselves to the laws now in force or 
that may hereafter be enacted in this country, with which 
intent they ask certain privileges and concessions. 

CONSIDERING 

That the Republic is in need of industrious Immigrants to 
develop the natural resources which abound in our country, and 
that the Legislative Decree of 23d February of last year autho- 
rizes the Government to protect this class of enterprises ; 

Therefore, now makes and decrees the following concessions ; 

1st. It is permitted to the honest and industrious Immigrants 
from the United States, of the South of North America, who 
have already come or may hereafter come to this country, to es- 
tablish, in the District of San Pedro, Department of Santa 
Barbara, a cummunity which shall bear the title of City of 
Medina. 

2d. Besides the common use which the Municipality of San 
Pedro has granted to said Immigrants in its public lauds, under 
the conditions laid down in the Act presented by Mr. Malcolm, 
and which the Government has approved, they are also granted 
the national lands contiguous to those of San Pedro towards the 
south, and included within the following boundaries ; the Cham- 
licon and the base of the mountains of the south-west of the said 
village of San Pedro, a delineation of which will be opportunely 
made. 



:96 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

3. Port Cortes shall be free during three years, ia order that 
the settlers of the city of Medina may introduce everything ne- 
cessary for their consumption, and for the establishment of 
houses, manufactories, machinery, etc. 

4. Navigation by steam or horse power of the rivers Cham- 
licon, Ulua and its tributaries, shall be the exclusive privilege of 
«aid Immigrants for a period of eight years. 

5th. They are also granted the following exclusive privileges : 

1st. For ten years, the establishment of machines for manu- 
facturing cotton, woollen and other fibrous goods, and for 
refining sugar. 

2d. For eightyears, the establishment of steam or w^ater power 
mills, for sawing and planing lumber, also wash machines. 

3d. The introduction during five years, of wagons, buggies, 
carriages, the sewing machine known as the " Common 
Sense Sewing Machine," the machine for making tin-ware and 
the still known as the '-Log Still," for the distillation of spirit- 
uous liquors, and the sale of the same, under the regulations rela- 
tive to this branch. 

6. They shall have the right of constructing roads over national 
lands, or lands of private persons, for the benefit of themselves 
and of the Government, and to construct aqueducts to conduct 
water for the irrigation of their lands. 

7. The settlers of the city of Medina, shall be exempt from 
military service and forced contributions during two years from 
their arrival. 

8. They shall have the right to elect for their government, ant.i 
in conformity with the laws of the Republic, a municipal 
body ; and may, in the meantime, and until they number 500 
persons, be ruled by a Governor and a Judge of the Peace whom 
they shall elect from among themselves, those officers being 



SPANISH HONDURAS. 9« 

subordinate, the former to the Governor of Santa Barbara, and 
the latter to the "Judge in the First Instance" of Omoa. 

9th. They shall have the right to make their own rules and 
regulations for the internal government of the cummunity, in 
conformity with the laws of the Eepublic, and shall submit these 
to the approbation of the Congress, or the Supreme Executive 
Power, 

10. The articles which said settlers may ship in the ports of 
the Eepublic shall be free from all export duty during a period 
of eight years. 

These concevssions shall in no manner operate to the prejudice 
of the projected Inter-Oceanic Eailroad ; for, whatever privileges 
have been, or may hereafter be granted to the latter, shall be an 
exception to the present concessions. 

Let it be understood : that the privileges before mentioned 
relative to the establishment of machines, shall be confined to 
the departments of Santa Barbara, Gracies and Comayagua ; 
excepting for the machine for manufacturing cloths, which shall 
extend to the whole Eepublic. 

If within three years the mimber of persons in the city now to 
be founded does not ascend to five hundred at least, the pri- 
vileges granted under this Act shall remain without effect ; but, 
in such case the immigrants who may already be established 
shall have the right of property to such portions of the land 
granted as shall be found under cultivation. 

AVritten in Comayagua, in the Government House, on the 
8th day of May, 1867. — J. Lopez, Ponseano Leiva. 



I 



A. true copy, 
San Pedro, Jan. 29th, 1868. 

J. EEYNAUD. 



98 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

On the 22d of April 18b7 the Act given below was passed by 
the town of San Pedro for the protection of foreign Immi- 
grants. 

Acta Municipal tie las Autoridades de San Pedro, protejiendo 
a los Inmigrantes- E stranger OS. 

Jose Maria Merlo, 

Secretario de la Municipalidad de San Pedro, 

Certifico : que en el libro de actas y acuerdos que la Munici- 
palidad Ueva en el corrieute aiio, se encuentra el acuerdo que 
literalmente dice : " Sala de Sesiones Municipales, San Pedro. 
Abril veinte y dos de mil ochocientos sesenta y siete. 

La Municipalidad de San Pedro, reunida estraordinariameute 
en union del Consejo y otros vecinos, presidida por el seiior Al- 
calde Municipal. En seguida, despues de oida la solicitud ex- 
puesta por el coronel Mr. Green Malcolm, natural de los Esta- 
dos Unidos de Xorte America, representaute de la emigra- 
cion de dichos Estados, que hoy ha arribado y que arribe en lo 
sucesivo a esta poblaciou con anirao de avecindarse ; por si y a 
uombre de sus consosios, pidio se les conceda poblarse con noso- 
tros, y terrenos de los nuestros para edificar casas, para habita- 
ciones, para raaquinas, fabricas o manufacturas de coser, tejer, 
aserrar y otras, y para cultivar. La IMunicipalidad, conside- 
rando : lo. Que el territorio de la Kepublica de Honduras es 
uu asilo para todo estrangero, maxime que venga a trabajar de 
cualquier manera en el. 2o. Que ofreciendo Mr. Malcolm por si 
y sus consocios establecer fobricas y manufacturas en el pais : y 
ademas, enseiiar a los hijos de este mismo, dichos oficios u otros. 
3o. Establecer una ruta de comunicacion por el Chamalecon 
entre Omoa y San Pedro para exportar e importar mercancias 
suyas y de los del pais, cobrandoles a e?to? precios equitativos, 



SPANISH HONDURAS. 99 

tanto, que les cueste clos o tres veces menos que el alquiler de 
nnamulapoi* el transporte. 4o. Yivir fraternalmente con los 
de este pais y servirse mutuamente. 5o. Acatar las autori- 
dades, las leyes y la religion del pais, y contribuir por su parte al 
respeto, observancia y cumplimiento de las primeras, de modo. 
que si entre ellos alguno faltare a su dicho respeto y observancia, 
pediran y liaran que sea castigado segun las mismas leyes. 60. 
Y establecer colejios y escuelas da ensenanza para sus hijos y los 
de este pais, cuando se radiquen. Y la Municipalidad en conse- 
cuencia, oyendo al consejo, acordo. lo. Dar a todo estrangero 
que quiera radicarse en San Pedro, derecho en los ejidos de esta. 
poblacion para edificar casas para liabitacion, para raaquinas o 
fabricas de tejer, coser, acerrar raaderas y otras quedeseen esta- 
blecer despues, y para el cultivo de cana, algodon, cafe, etc. 2o. 
Que los Norte Americanos que hoy ban llegado y llegaren a 
establecerse en San Pedro, no podran impedir a ningun centro- 
araericano, de otra nacion amiga, que viniere a avecindarse, 
que quisiere edificar casa cerca de las suyas en los lugares que 
no tengan occupados. 3o. Que el derecho que tengan en los 
ejidos sera igual al que tienen los vecinos de San Pedro para 
cultivar, para cortar maderas, scan no para construccion, para 
materiales de sus casas, fincas y de otras cosas para que quieran 
hacer uso, menos para exportarlas como articulo mercantil. 4o» 
Igual derecho tendrau a las plantas medicinales y frutas sil- 
vestres sin dueno, que se encuentren en dichos ejidos para que 
hagan uso de ellas. Tambien tendran derecho al u?o de la raadera 
para leila y de las aguas para sus maquinas, siempre que las 
necessitaren, si de esto no resultare dano alguno al comun del 
pueblo. 5o. Que ninguno de los vecinos de San Pedro les mo- 
lestara ni inquietara por la posesioi de lo que adquieran bajo de 
los principles de esta concesion ; y el que lo hiciere, sera casli- 



100 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

gado como perturbador de la paz y tranquil idad de las familias. 
60. Que de este acuerdo se le de testiraonio a Mr. Malcolm para 
que lo presente a S. E. el Sr. Presidente de la Republica, 
para que si lo estimase por conveniente, se sirva darle su so- 
berana aprobacioii, que disponga lo que fuere mas conforme. 
Asi se acordo, firmando la Mnnicipalidad, el Consejo y vecinos 
que concurrieron por ante mi el presente Secretario que doy fe, 
Monico Padilla. Por el Senor Rejidor Don Pablo Caliz, que 
no sabe firmar, y por mi como Sindico, Antonio Zarabia. Por 
los Consejeros Don Juan Zuniga. Don Juan Caliz y Don Luis 
Matamoros que no saben firmar, y por mi como Consejero, 
Manuel Cruz. Timoteo Quintera. Lazaro Bardales, por mi 
padre Serapio Reyes, que no sabe firmar y por los Senores Don 
Jorge Yallecillo, y Don Concepcion Yallecillo. Andres Reyes. 
Manuel Caliz. Jose Reynaud. Rufino Gonzales. Eduardo 
Bucbmar. Jose Maria Merlo, Secretario. Concuerda con su 
orijinal a que remito de.donde lo saque literalmente, a pedimento 
verbal de Mr. Malcolm, en San Pedro, a los veinte-y-tres dias 
del mes de Abril de mil ochosientos sesenta-y-siete. Jose Maria 
Merlo, Secretario. 
Es conforme. 

San Pedro, Enero 31, 18G8. 

J. REYNAUD. 



spanish honduras. 101 

(translation.) 

A Municipal Act of the Authorities of San Pedro, for the Pro- 
tection of Foreign Immigrants. • 

I, Jose Maria Merlo, Secretary of the Muaicipality of San 
Pedro, do herby certify : 

That in the Book of Acts and Resokitions, of the Municipality 
for this year, is found the Resohition which literally says : 
Municipal Session Hall, San Pedro, April 22, 1867. 

The Municipality of San Pedro, in extraordinary session as- 
sembled, in conjunction with the Council and other citizens^ pre- 
sided by his Honor the Alcalde Municipal, and after hearing the 
petition^resented by Col. Green Malcolm, a native of the Uni- 
ted States of North America, representing the emigration from 
said States already arrived or that may hereafter arrive at this 
place, with the object of domiciliating here, for himself and in 
behalf of his associates, he solicits the right of settling among 
us, and also the grant of lands to build houses for residence, and 
for machine-shops and manufactories of various kinds, such as — 
Clothing manufactories, Saw Mills, etc., and also for agricultu- 
ral purposes ; Therefore, the Municipality, considering : 

1st. — That the territory of the Republic of Honduras offers 
a home to all foreigners, particularly to the industrious who may 
wish to settle upon its soil ; 

2d. That Mr. Green Malco'm, for himself and in the name of 
his fellow settlers, offers to establish machines and manufactories 
in the country, and to teach to the natives of the soil the use and 
management of the same, and other trades ; 

3d. To establish a highway, for transit by the Chamlicon, be- 
tween Omoa and San Pedro, to import and export merchandise 
for themselves and for the natives, requiring from the latter such 



102 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

reasonable prices as will amount to about oue-third vbe bire of 
a mule. 

4. To live in good barmony witb tbe natives, fraternizing with 
and helping each other. 

5. To respect the authorities, the laws and the religion of the 
country, and to contribute on their part, to the respect, obser- 
vance and execution of the same, so that if any of them should 
fail in this particular, they shall demand and see that he be pun- 
ished according to the laws. 

6. To establish Colleges and Schools for their children and 
those of the natives. 

And the Municipality after hearing the Oonncil dic^ therefore 
resolve : — 

1. To grant to each and every foreigner wishing to settle in 
San Pedro, the right to build on the public lands of this com- 
munity, houses of residence, machine-shops and manufactories of 
various kinds, for cloths and clothing, saw mills, aud such others 
as they may wish to establish afterwards ; and also for the cul- 
tivation of Cotton, Sugar Cane, Coffee, &c. 

2. That the jSTorth Americans who have arrived or may here- 
after arrive here for the purpose of settling in San Pedro, shall 
not oppose any Central- American, or citizens of any friendly 
nations who may come to settle, and erect buildings on the un- 
occupied lands in their vicinity. 

3. That their right in relation to public lands shall be the 
same as those enjoyed by the citizens of San Pedro, for cultiva- 
tion, for making lumber, whether for building purposes or for the 
use of their establishments, or other purposes, excepting for ex- 
portation as an article of merchandise. 

4. They shall have an equal right to the medicinal plants and 
wild fruits on the public lands ; also the right to cut wood for 



SPANISH HONDURAS. 103 

fuel, and to the use of the water for their machines, whenever 
they may need them, provided no prejudice result therefrom to 
the public at large. 

5th. That no citizen of San Pedro shall molest or disturb 
them in the possession of whatever they may acquire under this 
Act : and any one so doing, shall be punished as a disturber of 
the peace and tranquility of the community. 

6th. That this Act be communicated to Mr. Malcolm, that 
he may present it to His Excellency the President of the Re- 
public, in order that, should he deem it expedient, he may give 
it his sovereign approval, or otherwise dispose as he may think 
proper. 

Thus agreed, and signed by the Municipality, the Council' 
and citizens who concurred, before me, the present Secretary, 
to which I hereby certify. — Monico Pedilla, by the Seiior Re- 
gidor Don Pablo Cadiz, who cannot sign his name, and by me 
as Syndic, Antonio Zarabia ; for the Councilmen Don Juan 
Zuniga, Don Juan Cadiz, and Don Luis Matamoros, who can- 
not write, and for myself Manuel Cruz, Timoteo Qain.tero, 
Lazaro Bardalis. Por mi padre, Seraphio Reyes, who cannot 
sign, and for Messrs. Jorge Yallecillo and Ooncepcion Valle- 
cillo, — Andres. Reyes. Manuel Cadiz, Jose Reynaud — Rufino 
Gonzalez — Eduardo Buckmar. Jose Maria Merlo, Secretario : 
This agrees with the original from which I copied it. literally, at 
the verbal request of Mr. Malcolm, in San Pedro, on the 23d 
day of the month of April, 1867. — Jose Maria Merlo, 
Secretary. 

A true copy : 

San Pedro, January 31, 1868. 

J. REYNAUD. 



104 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

The following is from the Legislative Bulletin of March 

14th, 1866 : 

El Presidente de la Republica de Honduras a sus Habit antes : 
Sabed : Que el Soberaao Congreso ha decretado lo siguieute : 
" El Soberano Cougreso con el fin de establecer las condi- 

ciones bajo las cuales debe admitirse en la Republica la inmi- 

gracion estrangera; yen complimento del articalo^l9 de la 

CoustitucioQ, ha tenido a bieu 

DECRETAR. 

Aeticulo lo. Se concede a todos los esti'angeros que quieran 
domiciliarse en Honduras, los derechos que gocen los 'nativos 
con areglo a las leyes, a las cuales quedaran sugetos los inmi- 
grantes, desde el momento en que adquieran vecindario. 

Art. 2o. El estrangero que desde el dia en que obteuga 
carta de vecindad, en cinco anos, cultive positivamente un ter- 
reno nacional, estableciendo en el, fincas estables, lo hara suyo 
en propriedad, pudiendo sacar de otros terrenos nacionales 
•contiguos, los aprovechamientos necesarios para su finca. 

Art. 3o. Los estrangeros gosaran el privilegio de no prestar 
servicios mil it ares en un periodo de diez aiios, salvo el caso de 
guerra nacional para repeler una invasion ; y por cuatro anos 
no sera n molestados para ningun oficio o empleo concejil. 

Art. 4o. Los inmigrantes que profesen otra religion que no 
:sea la dominante, pueden ejercer privadamente su propio culto. 
y erijir cementerios para sepultar sus cadaveres. 

Art. 5o. Los inmigrantes no estaran sujetos, durante ocho 
aiios, a tasas ni irapuestos extraordinarios ; ni pagaran derechos 
fiscales por la introduccion de maquinas herramientas, iiistru- 
mentos y libros para ejercer sus ciencias e industrias. 

Art. 6o. El Foder ejecutivo concedera privllegios esclusivos a 



SPANISH HONDURAS. 105 

los estrangeros inventores o introductores de maquinas o proce- 
dimientos utiles, no usados en el pais. 

Art. 7o. En todo tiernpo, los estrangeros libres de responsa- 
bilidad legal, podran eraigrar y disponer de sus intereses a su 
arbitrio. 

Art. 8o. A los inmigrantes que tomen en arrendaraiento, 
tierras o fincas de propriedad particular, no se les cobrara mas 
canon o pension, que la que por costumbre se haya exijido a 
los nativos . 

Art. 9o. Las concesiones de esta ley se entienden acordadas 
tambien, a favor de los inmigrantes de las Republicas de 
America, 

T>ado en el Salon de sesiones del Congreso Nacional. Coma- 
ayagua, Febrero 26 de 1866. Juan L opez, D. P. Carlos Ma- 
drid, I). S. Jeronimo Zelaya, D. S. 
Es conforme a su original. 

San Pedro, Febrero 3 de 1868. 

J. RETNAUD. 

TRANSLATION. 

CoMAYAGUA, 14th March, 1866. 
The President of the Republic of Honduras, 

To its Inhabitants : 
Be it known : That the Sovereign Congress has decreed the 
following : 

" The Sovereign Congress, with the view of laying down the 
conditions under which Foreign Immigration is to be admit- 
ted into the Republic; and in complianc3 with article 19 of 
the Constitution, hereby 

DECREES : 

Art. 1. To all foreigners wishing to domiciliate in Honduras 



106 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

are granted the rights enjoyed by- the Natives under the hiws, 
to which Immigrants shall be subject from the moment they 
acquire a domicil. 

Art. 2, The foreigner who, within five years from the day he 
obtains his certificate of residence, shall positively cultivate 
some national land, establishing thereon permanent farms, will 
thereby acquire the right of property to said land, and shall 
moreover have the right of taking from o ther contiguous Gov- 
ernment lands such materials as may be necessary for the im- 
provement of his place. 

Art. 3. Foreigners shall enjoy the privilege of exemption from 
military service during a period of ten years, except in case of 
national war to repel invasion ; and during four years shall not 
be required to perform any civil duty. 

Art. 4. Immigrants whose religious creed may be different 
from the prevailing religion, may privately follow their own 
religion and erect cemeteries for the dead. 

Art. 5. Immigrants shall not be subject, during eight years, 
to any tax or impost, nor have to pay fiscal duties for the intro- 
duction of machinery, tools, instruments and books for the use 
of their professional or industrial pursuits. 

Art. 6. The Executive Power shall grant exclusive privi- 
leges to foreigners who may invent or introduce machines, or 
useful improvements, not in use in this country. 

Art. 7. At all times, foreigners free from all legal respon 
sibility shall be at liberty to imigrate and to dispose of their 
interests at their own will. 

Art. 8. Immigrants who may take on lease private lands, or 
farms, shall not be required to pay higher contributions than is 
usually required from natives. 



SPANISH HONDURAS. 107 

Art. 9. The benefits granted under this law are understood 
to extend al^o to immigrants from the Kepublic^ of America. 

Criven in the Session Hall of the National Congress. Coma- 
yagua, February 26, , 1866. Juan Lopez, D. P.— Carlos Ma- 
drid, D. S. — Jeronimo Zelaya, D. S. . 

A true copy : 

San Pedro, February 3, 1868. 

J. REYNAUD. 



Knowing that the Official Gazette of all countries is sup- 
posed to reflect the sentiment of the (xovernment, the following 
is inserted to give information that may be of value, or at least 
of interest to those who contemplate removing to Spanish Hon- 
duras. 

[Copia.) 
(Parrafo tornado del Tomo 6o, JTumero 73, de la Gaceta Oflcial de Honduras.) 

Emigrados Cultivadores y Emigrados Politicos. 

" Xuestra industria y nuestra. civilizaciou que tanto reclaraan 
el advenimiento de estrangeros pacificos con designios de radi- 
carse en el pais, comienzan a recibir beneficios de la emigracion 
de cultivadores, que andando el tiempo daran a nuestras riquezas 
naturales todo el valor que merecen y que hoy se desconoce.'' 

" Ha veuido a las costas de Omoa un numero considerable de 
familias de los Estados Unidos con capi tales y herramientas ; se 
estan haciendo plantaciones que bastante prometeu, y se espera 
el continuado ingreso de otras familias. Mientras tanto, se ini- 
cian aigunas contratas para la ejecucion del fproyectado Ferro- 
carril Inter-Oceanico. que corao por encanto cambiara,, cuando 



108 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

se verifique, la suerte de este pais estacionado y comprimido 
entre dos mares por falta de una via ferrea que los comunique." 

" La Republica pues, pasados sus reeientes quebrantos por la 
guerra de Olancho, toca una epoca en que comenzaran a desar- 
rollarse sus inealculables elemeutos de prosperidad, bajo los 
auspicios de la paz y de la nueva legislacion que hoy rije." 

" Aparte de las contratas que sancione el proximo Congreso, 
hay una ley bastante liberal para atraer la iumigracion estrau- 
gera, y el Poder Ejeeutivo esta facultado para aumentar las con- 
cesiones. En efecto, hay la mejor disposicion para que asi se 
realice ; pero con tan prudentes reservas, que en ningun caso 
puedan convertirse en araenazas o peligros para la nacion, los 
bienes que se dispensen al elemento civilizador que pretende 
favorecernos." 

" Por lo mismo cumple al buen sentido con que Ira procedien- 
dose en esta parte, que sea bien couocida de todos la politica del 
mismo Gobierno." 

" No es aceptable en sus determinacioues, el hecho de que se 
establescan colonias que asuman la aptitud de grupos en que 
prevalezca la solaridad de un estrangerismo peligroso." 

" Tampoco seran aceptables los derechos esclusivos en favor 
de algnnas uaciones, gremios o individuos, que impidau a otros 
los comunes beneficios que las leyeg del pais ofrecen a todos los 
emigrados pacificos del mundo." 

" En lo concerniente a la via ferrea, sera preferible el proyecto 
que en mejores terminos briude mas garantias de practicabilidad.'" 

" En orden a emigrados politicos de las vecinas Republieas, el 
Gobierno muy iuteresado en la paz de Centro-America, cumplira 
con fidelidad los tratados que sobre la materia existeu con algu- 
nas de ellas ; y respecto de las que no medien pactos expresos. 
hara que inflexiblemente se observe con sus respectivos emigra- 



SPANISH HONDURAS. 109 

dos lo que el Derecho de Gentes previene, sin perraitirles que 
ejerzan hostilidades contra sus gobiernos ; pero estode tal modo, 
que en casos indefinidos, no se infrinja la Constitucion de la 
Republica, por que el Presidente de ella esta dispuesto a sostener 
a todo trance ese codigo que le cupo en honra sancionar sin ser- 
le dable hollarlo, por que en eso seria una inconsecuencia 
culpable." 

Es conforrae. 

San Pedro, Febrero 11, 1868. 
J. REYNAUD. 



translation. 

(Extract from the 6tli Volume, No. 73, of the " Gazeta Oftcial " of Honduras.) 

" agricultural emigrants and political emigrants. 

" Our industry and civilization, so much in need of energetic, 
experienced and enterprising men, already begin to give unmis- 
takable evidences of the immense benefits to be derived by our 
country from the advent and permanent settlement on our soil 
of the industrious and enlightened immigrants whom the liberal 
policy of our Government is now attracting to our shores, and 
whose labors, we have no doubt, will soon soon render available 
the hitherto hidden and unprofitable treasures of our fertile soil. 

'' A considerable number of immigrants provided with capital 
and agricultural implements have already arrived from the 
United States, and the various plantations which here and there 
have sprung up under their care, promising a just reward for 
their labors, cannot fail to insure the continued influx of this 
desirable class of population. At the same time several con. 
tracts are on foot for the building of the projected Inter- 
Oceanic Railroad, which will, when realized, change, as if by 
enchantment, the fate of this country now bound and com- 
10 



110 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

pressed between two seas, for want of a railroad to establish 
communication between tbem. 

"The Republic, then, free from the recent troubles of the war 
of Olancho, has now reached a period wlien, under the auspices 
of peace and a wise legislation, the incalculable resources of its 
soil will begin to develop. 

'• Apart from the contracts wliich will be sanctioned by the 
uext Congress, there is a law sufficiently liberal to attract for- 
eign Immigration, and the Executive Power is authorized to 
increase the concessions. In fact, the law contains the best 
dispositions for the realization of this object ; but under such 
prudent restrictions, that in no case, can the benefits and privi- 
leges thus conferred, be converted into a dangerous power in 
our midst. 

" It is therefore important for ail parties to understand the 
true policy of the Government on this subject. 

" It is not in the spirit of that policy to tolerate the es- 
tablishment of colonies that would assume the attitude of 
groups in which would prevail the solidarity of a dangerous 
foreignism. 

" Neither should it be interpreted as granting rights or privi- 
leges to certain nations, corporations or individuals, that would 
exclude others from the common benefits which the laws of the 
country offer to all peaceable immigrants from all parts of the 
world. 

" In relation to the Eailroad, that plan will be most acceptable 
that shall give the best guarantee of practicability. 

" With regard to political emigrants from [the neighboring 
Republics, the Government, much interested in the peace 
of Central Americn, will foithfullv conform with the treaties 



SPANISH HONDURAS. Ill 

which exist between some of them and this Government ; and 
with respect to emigrants from those republics with whom we 
have as yet no treaty, they shall be dealt with according to the- 
strictest principles of reason and equity ; not permitting them 
in any case to exercise hostilities against their own govern- 
ment ; but this, in such manner, that in cases not defined, the 
Constitution of the Republic shall not be infringed, for the 
President is determined to enforce at all times the provisions of 
that Instrument which he had the honor of sanctioning, without 
being at liberty to violate it. 
A true copy : 
San Pedro, February 11, 1868. 

J. REYNAUD. 



The Council elected in 1867 continued in office till the 18th of 
February, 18G8, when a new Council was elected, the following^ 
gentlemen being chosen ; Dr. G. P. Frierson t'le Presiding 
Officer. 

Dr. G. P. Frierson, D. P. Ferguson, 

W. B. Tindle, Sr., L. G. Pirkle, 

G. A. Haralson, A. J. Hill, Secry. 

In consequence of a diffiirence of opinion existing between the- 
authorities of San Pedro and Maj. Malcolm concerning the 
Mayor's authority over, and right to grant titles to the town 
lauds as Agent of the Bureau of Emigration, the matter was put. 
to rest by the Major signing the following paper, which was- 
made a matter of public record. 

{Copy.) 

"As I do not wish to be misunderstood or misrepresented, i 
hereby repeat what I have stated to Dr. Frierson and others at 



112 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

different times, that any one desiring to settle on the District of 
land called Medina, and which was conceded by the town of 
San Pedro in an official Act dated April 22, 1867, to settlers, 
have the ability, with my consent, to choose their location and 
150 acres to a man of family and 100 acres to a single man, and 
that they have the right to apply to the authorities of San 
Pedro for titles or rely upon ray obtaining titles for them as 
they may choose. That I make no objection to any settler ex- 
cept on account of unworthiness to be established by me. The 
cost to be at the expense of each settler, unless the (ireneral 
Government decide that titles are only ti be made by the 
authorities of San Pedro ; and in that case, I obligate myself 
to refund all such costs made to me. In the event that the 
General Government decide that titles to said lands shall be made 
through other channels, then I obligate myself to furnish in- 
disputable titles, without additional costs, and in whatever 
manner the Government may direct. Having promised as a 
citizen of the country and as an officer of. Government, to be 
controlled in all things by my superiors. 

February 24, 1868. 

{Signed) G. MALCOLM. 

Witnesses : 

[Signed) G. P. Frierson, 
W. J. Walters, 
L. G. Pirkle. 



The following notice being found posted, is copied for infor- 
mation. 

NOTICE. 

At a meeting of the City Council of Medina, February 24, 
the following resolution was passed : 



SPANISH HONDURAS. 113 

That auy one wishing a lot in Medina, can obtain the same 
by paying register fee, (one dollar) with the privilege of buying 
an additional lot for the sum of 25 dollars ; provided the first 
lot be cleared off immediately and improved within six months ; 
the second to be cleared and improved within twelve months. 
A house to be erected on one of the lots within six months. The 
above privilege to close on June first. 

February 26, 1868. 
[Signed] G-. P. FRIEKSON, 

Chairman. 



The town of San Pedro is situated on the plain of Sula, in the 
department of Santa Barbara, and is about thirty miles from 
Omoa, though the natives state the distance to be about fifty 
miles. An attempt has been made to describe the routs to it, 
and we will now give a short account of the town and its sur- 
roundings. The town is certainly most delightfully situated, 
two and a half miles from the mountains on the west, whose tops 
are frequently enveloped in clouds, and the varying hues of the 
vegetation on their slopes as the sun rises and descends make a 
scene that is constantly changing, and which is as pleasing as it 
is lovely. There are no cisterns or wells, the supply of water 
being brought from the Rio de las Piedras, two and a half miles 
distant, and passes through the place by four little streams, 
through which it gurgles over pebbly bottoms, entirely shaded 
till it reaches the corporate limits of the place, pure, clear and 
cool from the mountains. 

By a regulation of the town the water is not permitted to be 
disturbed above a certain point, where the supply is obtained 
for culinary purposes and for drinking. The Cavildo (Court 



114 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

house) is constructed of large sun dried bricks, or adobes, and is 
covered with tile, as is also the church edifice and several other 
houses in the place, but most of the buildings have mud walls 
and are covered with branches of the Cahoon. Not a chimney 
is to be seen in the place ; not a pane of glass ; and only two 
plank floors. The houses are all one story. The country north, 
south and east of town is cultivated in patches of from five to 
fifty acres, where the orange, plantain, banana, pine-apple and 
•other fruits may be found growing. From sun rise till noon it 
is best to keep in the shade as the heat is oppressive, but after that 
time we have never known a breeze to fail to spring up from 
the north, which prevails with greater or less force till sun-set. 
It is a somewhat remarkable fact that when the thermometer 
indicates 70 ^ -, the temperature, judging from the feelings, 
seems to be at least 10 ^ . lower. The least that can be said is, 
this is a lovely spot, but the means of getting to it, and other 
objections that seem insurmountable, should, if possible, be re- 
moved. Population from 500 to 600; 200 of which are 
emigrants, and the remainder mixed. 

The productions of both Spanish Honduras and British Hon- 
<3uras are very much the same with the exception of cacao and 
coffee, both of which seem to us better here than in British 
Honduras. Mahogany, fustic, log-wood, rose-wood, and other 
woods of value are alike common in both countries, as is also the 
caoutchouc, or India-rubber. Most of the wood of both Spanish 
Honduras and British Honduras will not split, and the fencing 
is usually made of logs, or the " Pimento." The following we 
were told would split, though we saw no rails in the country, 
cedar, one kind of mahogany, laurel, jabon, pine, (which grows 
on the mountains) and one kind of oak (we saw only the live 
oak.) >[uch of the timber is liable to be attacked by worms 



SPANISH HONDURAS. 115 

and is unsuited to building purposes. The following being used 
for houses ; cedar, mahogany, blaciv laurel, frijolea, oak, cabra- 
hatcha, and the mother of cacao ; the last being very fine for 
posts, as it is said to be as durable as our locust. The Motate, a 
hedge plant, is used very extensively, (which we do not remem- 
ber to have mentioned) which grows to the height of six to 
eight feet, and resembles the tuft which grows on the top of the 
pine apple, with briers on each edge, and is impenetrable. 

It is a mistaken idea that fruits of most kinds can be had at 
all seasons of the year, and that they are superior to the same 
kinds imported into the United States. The banana and plan- 
tain are always to be had, as is also the orange, in some sections, 
but they are not superior in flavor to the same fruits, imported, 
as it is necessary to gather them, except the orange, in an un- 
ripe state, even here, to prevent their destruction by birds. The 
pine apple is perhaps superior in flavor when left to ripen on 
the plant, that being the opinion expressed by many, though we 
could discover but little, if any difference. There are no peaches 
no pears, no apples and we hardly think any one would exchange 
those fruits for all that are raised in Honduras. There are two 
fibrous plants that are worthy of mention, which are extensively 
used by the natives though comparatively little is prepared for 
export. The " Pete," or silk grass ; and the " Mascal." 
From the first fish lines and hammocks are made, and from the 
second, cordage. The fibre is almost precisely like the manilla, 
being equally strong, and is prepared without " water rotting." 
These plants so closely resemble the " Motate " in appearance 
that they are often mistaken for it. 

In British Honduras but little game was seen, but in Spanish 



116 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

Honduras can be found the deer, turkey, a species of grouse, 
and the Qualm which is a bird not unlike the pea fowl, but a 
little smaller ; also rabbits, quails and pigeons. 

While the waters of the sea furnish fish in abundance and in 
great variety, they were not found to be plentiful in the streams 
in either country we visited. 

3DXJTIES. 
The Import duty is 40 per cent on all things but liquor, that 
being 30 per cent ; 10 -per cent of the 40 per cent has to be 
paid in coin, and 30 per cent in Government paper, which re- 
duces it to about 15 per cent in coin. On liquor, 20 per cent 
has to be paid in coin, and the balance in Government paper. 
Export duty 6 per cent. There is no duty on anything 
iDrought into the country by emigrants for their own use. 
Exports and Imports. 
The annual exports are* about as follows : Imports being 
.about the same as exports in amount. 

Exports. — Mahogany, and other woods ^300,000 

Bullion 250,000 

Cattle 150,000 

^* Indigo, sugar, hides, tobacco and sarsa- 

parilla 250,000 

Total ^950,000 

I^E VEnSTTJES - 

The revenues of the country amount to about $300,000, a 
large portion of which is derived from the sale of Aguardiente, 
(native rum) and tobacco, both of which are Government mon- 
opolies. 

Most of the money in circulation is the Macaco or cut money, 



SPANISH HONDURAS. 117 

though there is now considerable American coin to be seen, 
which passes for its full value, except the dime and half dime. 



The Government is popular and representative and composed 
of three distinct powers, viz : Legislative, Executive, and Judi- 
cial. The first residing in the General Assembly, the second in 
the President, and the third in the Courts. 

The religion is the Roman Catholic to the exclusion of all 
others. The following being an extract from the Constitution 
of the country on that subject. 

Capitulo 3 ^ • 

DEL GOBIERNO Y DE LA RELIGION. 

Art. 7®* — El Gobierno de la Republica es popular re- 
presentativo ; y se ejercera por tres Poderes distintos : Legisla- 
tivo, Ejecutivo y Judicial, 

Art. 8 ® • — La Religion de la Republica es la Cristiana, 
Catholica, Apostolica Roman, con exclusion del ejercicio publico 
de cualquiera otra. El Gobierno la protege ; pero ni este ni 
autoridad alguna tendran intervencion en el ejercicio privado de 
las otras que se establezcan en el pais, si estas no tienden a de- 
primir la dominante y a alterar el orden publico. 

Persons born in the state, or any state of Central America 
are recognized as citizens. Foreigners may acquire the right by 
act of the Legislature, but as soon as they declare their intention 
to become citizens are entitled to the protection of citizens. 

All citizens over the age of 21 are entitled to vote, but after 
the year 1870 only those who can read and write will be entitled 
to that privilege. Any one convicted of a crime is deprived of 
the right of suffrage. Foreigners become naturalized by marry- 
ing in the state, or by holding a given amount of property. 



118 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

LA-BOI^EIiS A.T^TD SEH-^V-A-ISTTS. 

The price usually paid for men, field hands, is from five to 
seven dollars per month and their provision, and from eight to 
ten when they feed themselves. For a cook woman, .f 3 00 per 
month. For washing (family of four) $2 00 per month — wash- 
ing not done on the premises ; for a girl 12 years of age, from 
$1 00 to $1 50 per month ; and for boys of the same age $3 00 
per month. As is the case in British Honduras, laborers and 
servants are scarce, and the few to be found are seldom anxious 
to hire. We do not know of a family of emigrants at San Pedro 
provided with native servants, they doing their work in mo st 
cases themselves ; though there may be some. 

JDOnVEESTIO -A.E,I^-A^3SrGI-EI^E3SrTS. 

We have said there is not a chimney at San Pedro ; this is 
the case also in British Honduras except in the towns. The 
contrivance for cooking is a platform raised about two feet, on 
which clay to the depth of six inches is placed, and at one side, 
or rather edge, several little horse-shoe or semi-circular fire 
places are made on which to place the cooking vessels. It is 
astonishing to see how small a quantity of wood is necessary to 
cook a meal by this arrangement. A lady who has lived here 
for several years informed me she preferred these fire places to a 
cook stove. Such a thing as a bucket is not to be seen ; porous 
earthen jars being used instead, the constant evaporation from 
the surface of which reduces the temperature of the water several 
degrees. On the table, earthen bottles of a similar material are 
used instead of pitchers. The women are the most superior 
washers, yet a wash tub is not used, but what is called a Battea, 
which is a tray, varying in size, but usually two feet and a half 
in length by one and a half in width. For the benefit of bach- 
elors we will state that they have no use for a wash board, and 



SPANISH HONDURAS. 119 

that only thirty-seven and a half cents per dozen is charged for 
washing when soap is furnished them, and one dollar if the 
clothes are starched and ironed. Their work in this line ought 
to be well done, for our experience (before we commenced doing 
our own washing) proved that they required one day to wash, 
one to dry, one to iron, and from one to two more to bring it 
home, whether it was one piece or a dozen. It seems almost 
impossible for one person to do anything where two can be 
employed. In milking, one holds the calabash while another 
milks with both hands ; the calf being tied to a fore leg of the 
cow. 

Neat cattle are plentiful, and can be bought for, from 5 to 
10 dollars each, a short distance from San Pedro. Horses and 
mules are abundant, but very small, and vary in price from 15 
to 50 dollars, the latter price being paid for such animals as can 
be bought with us for the same sum in difierent funds. The hogs 
are very fine and can be bought low ; pork selling for 3 cents 
per pound. This is no country for sheep, but the goat seems to 
do very well. 

I^BFTIL'BS A.l>a-3D IKTSEOTS, 

We did not s"ee, during our stay in Spanish Honduras, a single 
snake — though they are said to be numerous. There are some 
bottle-flies, but not so many as in British Honduras, and in 
certain localities sand flies are very numerous and annoying. 
While we saw no mosquitoes at San Pedro, if it is desired to 
see them in their most gigantic proportions, take a trip on the 
Chemlicon. During our stay oti that river they proved them- 
selves to be the largest, strongest, most persistent in their efforts 
to annoy, carried the'sharpest weapon, and used it more vigorous- 
ly than any it hadjever betore ))een our misfortune to encounter. 



120 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

Auts are both very large and numerous, and those who succeed 
in establishing a kitchen garden, and in enjoying the fruit of 
their labor thus bestowed, consider themselves very fortunate. 

Having found that we made more than one mistake in this 
respect, will state that our litjen clothing was found not suited 
to the climate, as we were frequently uncomfortably cool, and it 
would have been better if thin woolen material had been selected 
instead. We were induced to purchase "Moccasins" at Belize, 
and found them to be of little service, though they are worn by 
men engaged in cutting for export the woods of the country, and 
by a very large proportion of the natives. If we had provided 
ourselves with a pair of good boots, it would have been much 
better. We also found that cotton socks did not answer a good 
purpose, and it would have been better had we been provided 
with those made of wool. It is best to have all articles that are 
to be carried to San Pedro, in packages of one hundred pounds, 
when it can be done, as two hundred ■ pounds is a load for a 
mule. 

American silver coins, with the exception of dimes and half 
dimes, pass in both British Honduras and Spanish Honduras, 
for their full value, and in British Honduras 2 J per cent is al- 
lowed for American Gold ^coin in making purchases, in con- 
formity to law of the country, thongh it can frequently be sold 
for 3 or 4 per cent. The English shilling will pass for as much 
as an American quarter, which fact having been ascertained by 
us before we left New Orleans, an ample supply of that coin 
was provided. 

The town of Onioa has less than one thousand inhabitants, 



SPANISH HONDURAS. 121 

and contains no buildings worthy of note, most of the houses 
being one story, though some are covered with tiles and some 
with corrugated iron. The system of cleanliness in operation at 
Belize, is unknown here, and even hogs are slaughtered in the 
streets. 

Commandant of Omoa, Gen'l Phil. Espinoza. 

American Consul Charles Follin. 

Belgian and British Consul J. F. Debrot. 

French Consul, — St. Laurent. 

C OITaLTJ£3I03Sr„ 

Though it would be pleasant to continue these pages, and give 
a more detailed account of the fruits, vegetables and minerals of 
the lands we visited, yet, feeling that we have already written 
too much to simply convey an idea of the country, must draw to 
a close. It has been our purpose from beginning to end, to give 
a fair and candid statement of facts, and to endeavor to enable 
all, to see as we saw, feeling satisfied they can draw satisfactory 
inferences therefrom. Much has been written concerning Hon- 
duras, that presented the appearance of speculation, and not 
ttnfrequently by Speculators, and comparatively little informa- 
tion of a detailed character has been given, which induced 
us to adopt a plan that we hope will not fail to convey a 
better idea ,of the country than has up to this time been at- 
tainable without making a trip. This, to the best of our 
ability, we have endeavored to do, even at the risk of repeti„ 
tion. Whatever may be the pecuniary condition of people, 
we saw no one in Honduras, who left the United States, 
Whose condition in that respect appeared enviable, and met but 
one person who had more money than he arrived there with. 
On the contrary, the emigrant lives in the simplest manner, and 
11 



122 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

we were informed by a gentleman at San Pedro, who was in a 
position of indepedence once in the States, that for many days his 
family had not been provided with meat, and that he had no 
money even to purchase many articles of prime necessity, much 
less one of luxury — though beef can be bought for three cents 
per pound and pork at the same price. It is true a very great 
mistake was made at San Pedro, in planting cotton to the 
almost entire exclusion of every thing else, and the crop being 
destroyed by the Army AVorm, and all their means being ex- 
hausted, they were compelled throu gh necessity to exercise the 
most rigid economy. Yery few have thus far erected houses, 
and are now paying for buildings of one room, from 5 to 8 dol* 
lars per month. 

It has been said of both British and ^Spanish Honduras, that 
certain crops can be made of a given quantity, and two crops in 
a year vAthout cultivation. This brings up for consideration the 
fitness of those countries for agricultural and Horticultural 
purposes. We have already stated there is much good land to 
be found, but we saw a much larger proportion than we ex- 
pected of what seemed very sandy. All seeds and plants must be 
planted at the commencement of, or during the rainy season, 
which in a great measure prevents cultivation on account of rain, 
if continuous, and we arc of the opinion that if cultivation is 
carried to the same extent it was in the States before the war, 
and all grass and weeds removed, the sun will in many localities 
so parch the soil, that but little will be produced where much 
may be expected. This is not liable to be the case with sugar- 
cane, rice, the plantain nor banana j the first two covering the 
ground with a mass of vegetation, and the last two entirely 
shading it around the trees with their broad leave? and thereby 
retaining moisture in tho earth. Tt in the custom with the 



SPANISH llOxXDtJRAS. 123 

natives to cultivate a piece of g't'ouud tbr one or two years, and 
then to clear another field, and abandon the first, as it is often 
easier to clear a new piece than the old, on account of the 
growth which makes its appearance on a field that has been 
planted being more difficult to remove. Another reason was 
given by those who have had experience in cultivating that soil, 
which was, that in a very few years the soil becomes exhausted 
to some extent, and it would prove more profitable to change. 
How will it be with sugar-cane, that (as is the case with all 
plants containing saccharine matter), draws very heavily on 
the soil? In Honduras there is no rest for land that is planted 
in cane, for as soon as a cane is cut another springs up regard- 
less of season, and we would ask, will not this constant and 
excessive drain soon exhaust one or more constituent elements of 
the soil, necessary to the growth of the plant ? There is no laud 
so rich that it will never become poor, and good cultivators of 
the soil have always found it to be profitable to rotate crops, 
and to feed their land before it becomes hungry and to rest it 
before it became weary. In the United States, vegetation is 
killed by frost, but in Honduras there is a constant growth of 
something on the soil, which is greater on land under tendance 
than on that covered with its primeval growth. 

There can be no question that the " Eternal Summer" which 
prevails in Honduras will be monotonous to a degree that will 
prove anything but pleasant. To us, autumn has ever been the 
most interesting season of the year, 'the sere and yellow leaf in- 
dicating a repose of the vegetable kingdom, and never failed to 
awaken thoughts of a pleasant character, and feelings of rever- 
ence. The sighing of the winds of winter through the lattice, 
the cheerful fireside, with the domestic scene it is unnecessary 
to describe, make a picture most of us are familiar with, but is 



124 SPANISH HONDURAS. 

lost, forever lost to the emigrant iu Honduras, though it can 
never be forgotten. The beautiful scenery constantly before the 
eye at San Pedro, must in the course of time lose its novelty, 
and cease to impress the mind as at first, and draw forth on 
certain occasions remarks of a similar character to one we heard 
from a gentleman who had for some time resided in Honduras 
which was " We can not live on beautiful scenery." What a 
volume was expressed in these fe;v words, and in the mournful 
manner in which they were uttered ! In conversation with old 
residents of Belize, they invariably expressed their surprise at 
persons locating on the coast of that country, which they stated 
had been attempted from time to time, without profit or health 
attending the honest and persistent eflforts of those who selected 
that portion of the country. Most of those persons who left this 
country with the view of making Honduras their future home, 
did so because of the unsettled condition of aSairs at the South, 
and under belief that any clime would prove better than the one 
they were leaving, on which point a very great mistake has been 
made, and we undertake to say without hesitation, that a large 
number would return at once if they were in possession of 
sufiBcient means to enable them to do so. Many on leaving their 
homes either " swore in their wrath," or affirmed in their agony 
that they would never return, which will keep them away, what- 
ever obstacles they may be called upon to remove, or privations 
they may have to endure. We have in our mind's eye several 
gentlemen of education, great energy, and influence, who are in 
this position, and will they not succeed in keeping many in the 
country who if left to exercise their own judgement would leave 
at an early day ? While many are leaving the " land of their 
birth," because of the character of the Government under which 
they are living, or we might say the almost entire absence of 



SPANISH HONDURAS. 125 

Government, would it not be well, first to examine into the 
character of the Government they are about to remove to ? And 
on the point of social equality, which is to some a hideous phan- 
tom, that at times threatens to assume the density of a solid, 
would it not be well to exercise a little thought before pack' 
ing up ? 

In closing, we indulge the hope that if hereafter any should 
select the countries of Central America in order to benefit their 
condition, that they need not necessarily undertake the move- 
ment without some information that will be more valuable to 
them than any we were able to obtain before leaving New 
Orleans. And if we arc the means of preventing disappointment 
or sufffering, even to a limited extent, our purpose will be more 
than accomplished, and our most sanguine expectations realized. 
While we give no advice, having studiously avoided doing, 
so, we would regret to hear of persons leaving this country with- 
out sufficient means to enable them to return. For to be thrown 
upon a distant shore, among people with whom we have few 
thoughts or feelings in common, and to be compelled to remain, 
if a favorable impression is not made, is a condition we have never 
experienced, and cannot describe, but which would be anything 
but pleasant, particularly if women and children should be of 
the number. Our task is done, and we can honestly say was 
undertaken more for the purpose of benefiting our fellow citiz- 
ens than for any other reason, and in accordance with what 
many friends have been pleased to call the exercise of a Christ- 
ian duty. 

THE END. 



l^i'mmWfMi 



j^ te/I:f> 



TO 



titirt Mm&uxH, 



AND TO 



8AN PEDRO^ 



REPUBLIC OF HONDURAS. 



I3Y OHA.K,lL,ES S\^ETT, 



OF W A KEEN COUNTY, Mis« 



I^I^IOE OlsTE IDOLLj^E.. 



NEW ORLEANS, 
PRICE CURRENT PRINT, 129 dt 131 Gravier St. 

1868. 



c^ 



IP, Act '05 



